It’s not everyday you find yourself eating BBQ ribs with 15 hardcore cave divers. These extremists have somehow made a sport and artform out of claustrophobia. We gathered around a long table at a hostel called the Habitat (colloquially known as “The Habby”) and were regaled by tales of one of the world’s most niche and dangerous hobbies.
We were invited to The Habby by Darren Mitchell, the exuberant owner of Dive Experience—an operation that has access to the most coveted sites in the area. He was kind enough to assume the role of guide, showing us the ropes around these weird parts. As he introduced us to the group as his new “entrepreneurial ocean friends,” the table stared blankly at us, wondering what exactly we were doing there. That’s when I turned to the person closest to me in an attempt to break the ice and asked, “so … come here often?”
That awkward question actually did the trick, and the silence shifted to hours of endless discussion between both novices and expert cave divers on their shared obsession. We learned about the history of cave diving and what it takes to get over fear of swimming through narrow passageways in total darkness. But perhaps most significantly, we talked about how we were in one of the best locations on the planet for this obscure sport.
In 2019, I was on the search for the world’s most challenging dive sites. The most trodden sites would keep coming up in my search over and over, such as the Blue Hole in Belize or Devil’s Cave in Florida. When I got past the obvious, and my digging went deeper (literally), I realized all of the world's most extreme sites started and ended with caves. That’s when I was able to find what lies beneath the surface in Mt. Gambier, South Australia.
Situated on the Limestone Coast, this town has a population of 28.5k residents, most of whom do not participate or even know about cave diving. However, the people that do, come or live in Mt. Gambier to seek the ultimate thrill below.
This area boasts a captivating geological landscape characterized by unique limestone formations—hence the name of the coast. The limestone has played a critical role in the creation of numerous sinkholes and caves with the terrain being the result of thousands of years of geological processing. It’s primarily composed of calcium carbonate, formed from the remains of marine organisms deposited over millions of years. As rainwater infiltrates the ground, it interacts with the limestone, gradually dissolving it and creating an intricate system of underground cavities.
Over time, the weakened limestone roofs collapse, resulting in sinkholes, which vary in size and shape. Additionally, the dissolved limestone forms subterranean channels, leading to the formation of stunning caves with intricate stalactites and stalagmites, captivating explorers and nature enthusiasts alike. Even the local highschool’s mascot—the Gambier Earth Movers—nods to the geological marvels that make up the area!
Mt. Gambier’s open and wet caves were equally interesting to the divers around the table. They talked about 17 dive sites that are accessible to those certified, but also all the other dry access points they were navigating along the way. There are so many caves and sinkholes that have been discovered and traversed by only a handful of experienced divers, and more are being discovered as we speak. They talked about the region as if it were a piece of Swiss cheese, with holes of many sizes acting as the entry to these mysterious underground spaces.
On the Kilsby family’s farm, a 65 meter sinkhole sits right in the middle of their property, amidst 2,000 sheep. As the first (and only) recreationally accessible sinkhole here, it’s an amazing representation of what lies beneath the surface. The water is so clear, at times you can see right to the bottom. And the water is so fresh, the family uses it to make gin that’s sold all over the region. For four generations, the family has been safeguarding this freshwater natural wonder. The Kilsby family enforces stringent regulations on their farm to ensure both the safety of divers and the safeguarding of this geological wonder.
Ewen Ponds is another otherworldly site that helps to fortify this region as the freshwater capital of Australia. Situated in the middle of marshland, three little ponds with two long, narrow swim throughs take you to an enchanted, emerald underwater garden. Similar to Kilsby, this site stays at 15 degrees year round, making the winter months particularly chilling in and out of the water. But as an exceptionally shallow water dive with undeniably spectacular plant life surrounding your body as you dive, it’s hard to remember you’re cold when taking in this ecosystem (especially true if you’re wearing a Venture Heat 100 meter waterproof vest!)
Having the opportunity to privately dive both sites around the winter solstice in nothing but a 7mm wetsuit was both chilling and breathtaking. No cold was going to stop us from missing out alongside Darren. However, there was one site in particular I was curious about, and wasn’t qualified (yet) to tackle: The Shaft.
Part of the network of sinkholes in the area, this dive requires expert-level navigation and experience. The site features a tiny vertical entrance that you enter by descending from a rope. This entrance shaft opens up into a vast underwater chamber with stunning visibility and geological formations. Divers can explore the cavern system, which includes intricate passages, tunnels and various rock formations. Thinking this was “the cave of all caves”, I came to learn there were so many more spectacular options in the area—from the Tank and Elk River to Olwologin and Engelbrecht.
I wanted to know what compelled these 15 people to train for months, years, decades to don extensive and heavy tech diving equipment, enter tiny holes in the ground, and navigate through pitch black systems with just a few lights to guide their way. With every conversation, it all led back to a few themes: push their mental boundaries, continuously evolve their diving skills, and to be on an expedition at all times. All in pursuit of the rush of a lifetime. A death-defying rush that most people on the planet will never even consider.
In my lengthy conversations with these cave divers, one name kept coming up—the legendary and rebellious Josh Richards. He was a past owner of The Habby and it was said he helped bring most people at the BBQ into the fold. It was clear this was the person I needed to connect with if I wanted to learn about the guts of cave diving.
Talking to Josh felt like talking to an old friend. We got deep. He explained that the cave diving community is an extremely complex niche, with many differing views on how to preserve these otherworldly water systems. His perspective aligned with mine—firmly rooted in bringing people together through this sport to show more the power of the planet. I’ve found the best way to fully respect and understand earth is through first-hand experience. This was Josh’s mindset too, and why he built up The Habby to be what it is today—a community center that those seeking adventure, exploration and next-level, natural adrenaline rushes can call home.
Mt. Gambier is one of those places you have to see to believe. I never had much desire to cave dive myself, that is until I met this insane group of extremophiles. Finding a passion like scuba diving and furthering your education is one thing. But, getting the chance to meet exceptional people like Darren, Josh and those 15 around the Habby’s living room table is what I find simply inspiring.
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