WELIGAMA, SRI LANKA

The Waves of Change

AUTHOR
Andi Cross
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Marla Tomorug & Adam Moore
December 5, 2023
|
9 min read
Audio generated for accessibility using AI. Intonation does not express the true level of awe and stoke.

Our journey to consciously explore Sri Lanka wasn't solely about the incredible food, the treks up and down the coast and the wildlife. We were drawn by another, more prominent narrative—one that was connected to the country's evolving relationship with the ocean and its people. Surfing in Sri Lanka, historically a male-dominated sport, has seen a significant shift. Women, once barred from the sport due to deep-seated cultural and religious beliefs, are now making their mark. 

This evolution in perception reflects a gradual change in Sri Lanka's surf culture, originally introduced by those visiting. Despite historical hesitations around interacting with foreigners, the younger generation of Sri Lanka is bridging the gap, paving the way for women in the burgeoning surf industry in the country. 

Sri Lanka has been part of the international surf scene since the 60s. But since the beginning, the sport has remained largely disconnected from the local culture. This detachment was particularly pronounced among women, influenced partly by the country's history with colonialism but also because of the older generation’s hesitation to interact with anyone outside of their own communities. With the rise of surfing in the country, this became one of the main tourist pulls, especially seasonally on the south and east coasts. 

In the realm of Sri Lanka tourism, women found themselves relegated to lower-tier jobs such as home care, food preparation and cleaning, with little involvement in more lucrative roles that took them into the great outdoors. This structure of the industry inadvertently kept women at a distance from surfing, and therefore a significant portion of the country’s tourism dollars. 

In speaking with local women, we came to learn there also was a stigma that was hard to overcome. The image of surfing in Sri Lanka, with a very stereotypical “beach boy vibe,” did little to invite women into the fold. Additionally, the high costs associated with the sport further alienated them. But adding insult to injury was the lack of swimming education for girls in the south of Sri Lanka. 

It seems counterintuitive that any local to an island nation would not have access to swimming education. But for quite some time in Sri Lanka, it was only the boys and men who had access to pools and training. This lack of exposure to swimming, coupled with the male-dominated surfing scene, fostered a sense of fear and hesitation from the ocean among local women.

By addressing the root causes of this disconnect and providing opportunity, SeaSisters emerged on the scene in 2018, aimed to empower local women—not just in surfing but in their broader interactions with the ocean and tourism industry. Their efforts are a step towards a more inclusive and equitable surfing culture in Sri Lanka, one that embraces women as active and equal participants.

SeaSisters was the vision of two surfers with a mission to make the ocean accessible to all Sri Lankan women. Their programs, ranging from swimming to surfing, are more than just lessons; they're a crusade against ingrained gender norms and a push towards economic empowerment through surf tourism. And today, this movement is gaining momentum. Especially with the founding of Sri Lanka's first all-female surf club in Arugam Bay. Additionally, they’re expanding their impactful Swim & Surf Program in Weligama in the south of Sri Lanka, the birthplace of SeaSisters. 

For founders Amanda Prifti and Martina Burtscher, SeaSisters was never just about teaching surfing. It was meant to be about creating a safe space for Sri Lankan girls and women to redefine their relationship with the ocean. This initiative is about empowerment, education, and equipping women with skills for a thriving future—both in and out of the water. 

The essence of SeaSisters lies in the belief that surfing is more than a sport; it's a tool for social transformation. Their programs aim to cultivate confidence and unlock new economic opportunities. But the empowerment doesn't end with surfing skills, it extends to environmental stewardship and community building. 

According to SeaSisters, “particularly in rural areas, women are expected to stay at home and take care of their families, often excluding them from the recreational and economic opportunities of surf tourism. But we believe that the ocean is for everybody and that swimming and surfing can serve as powerful tools of social change.” To support this program, SeaSister’s fundraise and sells ethical products that are handmade by Sri Lankan women for fair wages. This is what they deem their “double empowerment model, creating both jobs and the opportunity to swim and surf.”

Through this team’s efforts on the east and southwest coasts, women who once feared the ocean are now embracing it as a place of joy, opportunity, and healing. The stories of women like Thamali Liyana Arachchi, who overcame her fears and is now a leading figure in the program, is a testament to the power of this initiative.

Thamali, currently 31, manages the backend operations as a program manager, training to take on a directorial role. Her connection with the ocean has been ingrained since childhood thanks to her father's teachings. She sadly faced a tragic interruption when a family loss distanced her from the sea. Despite this, Thamali found her way back to the ocean through SeaSisters a year ago. 

The program not only helped her reconnect with nature, but also aided in healing old wounds and teaching her how to properly swim. She describes the atmosphere at SeaSisters as safe and joyful, a place where laughter and comfort reign, making every woman feel at ease even in some of the more challenging scenarios. The ocean is an unpredictable place that has an inherent fear factor. The SeaSisters help to manage this for participants who are just getting started or have any mental blocks preventing them from advancing. 

Thamali told us, “women here are so removed from the ocean. For so many reasons. So many families lost their houses and everything they own to the ocean when tsunamis hit. The people of my generation who have this experience have this wound inside them. They don’t have the chance to step into the ocean to learn how to swim and surf from a young age. SeaSisters provides an opportunity to change that.” 

Her journey from a participant to a leading figure in SeaSisters is a testament to the program's impact. Not only has Thamali rekindled her love for the ocean, but she's also now a driving force behind giving that same experience to other women, ranging between the ages of 16 to 55 years old. By offering a supportive and educational environment, SeaSisters empower women like Thamali to push themselves at a comfortable pace and help them realize the true extent of their potential when it comes to their personal and professional growth. 

At SeaSisters, the team structure is a harmonious blend of local empowerment and international expertise. The organization facilitates engagement between local women and their skilled volunteers that come from all around the world. SeaSisters also offers instructor training classes, including a Swim Academy, to enable local women to become licensed surf instructors themselves.

The team is composed of 20 dedicated volunteers teaching alongside 30 local participants. Currently, three team members are full-time, with international members serving as advisors. This small yet effective group is navigating a transition in leadership, moving from the original founders to local leaders assuming management roles. This shift represents a significant step in the organization's evolution, emphasizing local empowerment and sustainable management.

Complementing swim and surf sessions are "women talks," aimed at addressing topics like ocean conservation, safety, and women's health—subjects often unspoken in rural areas. Sometimes the talks feel uncomfortable for the women involved, as the topics are so new, and in some cases, quite surprising. We just so happened to be in Weligama for one that was centered around environmental conservation with a focus on pollution and what the local community can do about it. 

Led by Udani Hewamadduma, an Ocean Educator at SeaSisters, the session began with a detailed lesson on plastics and the importance of regular and systematic ocean clean-ups. The discussion, held in both English and in Sri Lankan Sinhala, delved into the various reasons the ocean is currently under stress and what actions can be taken to alleviate this pressure on an individual level. 

The conversation also touched upon the MV X-Press Pearl disaster, a recent and devastating event still fresh in the minds of Sri Lankans even three years later. This catastrophe, one of the worst human-made marine disasters, has especially pushed younger Sri Lankans to genuinely understand the need for greater care and vigilance to prevent such occurrences in the future—as something of this scale and size impacts everything, including surfing. 

Before going out to conduct a beach clean up with SeaSisters, a 10-year old girl named Buhansa eloquently explained the need to protect marine life from the dangers of plastics. Her simple yet wise perspective was hard not to captivate everyone in the group, reminding us that there’s urgency when it comes to conservation and restoration efforts. That moment cemented that our actions now will directly impact the rest of this young girl’s life. 

While in the midst of the clean up, a young woman came running up to us asking if we were a part of SeaSisters. She had seen some of the women wearing the branded shirts and mentioned she’d recently reached out to get involved. She dropped everything she was doing, grabbed a pair of gloves and a clean up bag and, along with her son, began scouring the beach for waste. It was as if without question or hesitation, this is where she was meant to be. It was clear this community was becoming completely infectious in the south of Sri Lanka. 

The country’s reliance when it comes to tourism is undeniable, but it's also a double-edged sword. The surge in surf tourism has brought economic benefits but also environmental challenges. SeaSisters is at the forefront of promoting sustainable tourism, advocating for a balance between enjoying the ocean's offerings and preserving its health.

Over the past two decades, significant changes have been seen in Sri Lanka's ocean environment. The once pristine seas have experienced increasing levels of pollution and commercial activity. The tourism industry has faced challenges over the last few years in particular, with global events drastically reducing revenue streams in the country. This situation has also highlighted the critical need for sustainable tourism, putting a focus on how to balance economic growth and environmental conservation. 

Surfing is a great connector. It brings people together. It brings us closer to the ocean. And it brings us closer to ourselves. It pushes us, terrifies us, and makes us stronger than before. It makes us lifetime ocean stewards. How women have harnessed the power of surfing to create community, communal growth and opportunity is what we found brought us closer to the Sri Lankan surf culture. 

If there’s one thing we can learn from our time in the Weligama waves it’s that surfing truly is a lifeline for many and something that has the power to open up opportunity and possibility where there once was none. 

To be continued …

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