It was a perfectly calm, flat and picturesque day to tour Roatán by boat, not a white cap or strong current in sight. We had a few quick dives that day, dropping down to see a hidden shipwreck and some squadrons of squid. But those weren’t what piqued our interest, surprisingly. It was actually the gigantic cages that were sitting on top of this pristine reefed destination in Honduras. On an island sitting off the coast of mainland Roatán, it looked as if there was a zoo—half in the water and half on land.
Asking our captain to take a closer look, we pulled right up to the bars to find three huge cats behind bars. They were tigers, one white and two with the conventional orange and black stripes, circling their enclosure along a thin ledge so as to not fall in the ocean. It was shocking to see that here in this tropical Caribbean paradise, there was a zoo on the reef jutting off of an island called Little French Key (LFK). The animals were pacing, back and forth on this ledge, and it was hard not to first get emotional and then second wonder, “what the fuck??”
Our capitan explained that if we were lucky, we’d see them in action. Having no idea what that meant and of course, inquiring further, he shared that the zookeepers will take the tigers out into the water to have a swim with LFK’s guests. And that’s when my fascination and level of “what the fuck” questioning began to get even deeper.
After spending a week asking locals about the situation on LFK, I got mixed stories. I also got hushed whispers and startled stares for even bringing up such a controversial topic. Some talked about drug trafficking and money laundering. Others talked about animal welfare. Some even talked about how celebrated this place was back in the day, as it brought in SERIOUS tourism dollars when cruise ship guests wanted to see these big cats in an unnatural environment. But none of them could really tell us the full story of this highly sketchy zoo and its tigers.
But we wanted to see for ourselves what was over there, sitting topside on LFK, and get a chance to see this morally questionable activity up-close-and-personal. Getting on the ferry from French Harbour to LFK is easy: you pay a few bucks and 5 minutes later, you’re there. Upon arrival it looked like equal parts dilapidated, once-luxury resort and partially intact zoo, both of which had seen better days. Statues were falling apart, the iconic “swing” that many resorts have today looked like it could collapse at any minute, and rows and rows of empty beach chairs faced out at the water, void of butts to fall into their seats.
Starting to navigate the small island, we were walking on freshly combed sand in perfect formation. The bar facing the ocean was bumping music, yet no one was inside. Meanwhile a young couple, easily on their first vacation together, were kayaking in less than perfect harmony around the small, shallow, flat bay. We walked to where we believed the entrance to the semi-aquatic zoo was, and found ourselves face-to-face with guards flaunting huge guns. It was clear that there was something deeper brewing under the cagey exterior here.
After speaking with a number of locals on the matter, the sentiment seemed to vary between extreme disgust, a neutral perspective or a general sense of apathy. For many on the island, this is a job opportunity that pays well—or at least it used to. While the owner of the island itself is of Hondurian descent, the owner of the zoo and dive shop are all said to be different, which further complicates one’s feelings on LFK. So while it’s hard to discern the truth of this situation, there’s also another element of this puzzle to consider: where did these animals come from and why are they still here today?
The locals we spoke to couldn’t figure out if the zoo owner bought the animals illegally from drug-fueled poachers or if they came as a part of the zoo purchase. Because of the mixed stories, and the generally avoidant attitudes of the locals, I took to the internet to see what reporting looked like on this topic over the years and have to say that I was floored by what I found.
Initially flagged by authorities for lacking the necessary permits to house exotic animals, the zoo was subjected to multiple raids over the years, revealing a persistent disregard for the safety of the wildlife it housed. The facility, notoriously founded by individuals linked to drug trafficking, has been criticized for its inadequate animal enclosures and the illicit acquisition of species, some of which were trafficked from remote areas like La Mosquitia.
Despite various governmental interventions, the issues at LFK persisted. The zoo, part of a larger complex operating under the misleading guise of a luxurious Caribbean getaway, sits on a key historically noted for piracy and now for the illegal wildlife trade. Over the years, the management continued to flout environmental and animal welfare laws, building facilities directly on top of the vital Roatán coral reef and decimating local mangroves. This disregard culminated in a devastating fire in 2018, which led to a significant intervention from government forces and highlighted the ongoing legal and environmental infractions.
The aftermath saw the zoo's temporary closure, yet by 2019 it was operational again, with new constructions continuing to encroach on protected areas. There were a few instances where the tigers were said to have broken out of their cages and swam to the Roatán mainland. Rescue missions followed after the tigers’ escape, but with nowhere else to put them, they returned from whence they came, back to LFK.
The owner, entangled in legal battles spanning continents, eventually faced arrests related to broader criminal activities, including even money laundering. This complex web of legal, environmental, and ethical violations illustrates the challenges facing wildlife conservation in Honduras, where the allure of tourism dollars often overshadows the critical need for environmental stewardship and respect for the law.
Now none of this is to diminish the fact that Roatán has a beautiful exterior and sits firmly on the map as one of the best dive destinations on the planet. But for those of us who spend a bit more time digging beneath the surface, we’ll inevitably find things that aren’t so visually appealing. Over the years, this Hondurian hotspot has captured the hearts and minds of many. But right on the shores, if you look close enough, you will see the pangs of what illegal activities are doing to this paradise on earth.
Known for their stunning white sandy beaches, clear turquoise waters, and lush tropical vegetation, these islands offer a quintessential Caribbean escape that lure in the cruise ship guests passing through. LFK has historically been one of the more popular destinations for day-trippers from Roatán, seeking a quieter, more exclusive experience as well. Visitors can indulge in a variety of water sports, relax in beachside cabanas, or enjoy the local cuisine at the waterfront restaurants, making this key a preferred choice for both relaxation and adventure—especially for those who do not know of its dark past (and in some recounts, present.)
You’d think these issues would have cast a shadow over the islands' reputation, prompting local and international calls for stricter regulations and enforcement to protect both the natural environment and the integrity of local tourism. But, that’s not fully the case. Even today, when the cruise ships come through during their peak season, this place has its moments where it’s busy and bustling with travelers. In fact, it was said by the locals that some of the cruise ships are actually in partnership with LFK.
For guests unaware, and just using the website as a reference point, you see a clean luxury experience that boasts its French pirating history, an eco-friendly ethos, swimming with mini pigs, horse riding in the ocean and fine dining for days. But there’s no mention of the random zoo in the middle of the Caribbean with animals that certainly do not belong there, especially not as snorkeling partners.
Let’s frame this up for a moment in a broader context for a moment: It’s hard to ask people to stop eating seafood or meat. In a lot of places around the world, this is the only option, or it’s what sustains the local population. With that, there are ways of doing things that can be more sustainable—striking a balance. But I have to say, it’s easy to ask people to STOP going on cruises and to really do your homework before you book a vacation. It’s not hard to ask those visiting new places where they think their tourism dollars are going, or to fully understand who you’re supporting in the end.
It’s complicated because everyone’s values are different—and there’s always multiple sides to any story. If you read reviews from people visiting LFK, you will see some positive stories about the animals in captivity. And perhaps some of this is actually true! We will never fully know the exact truths of this story on the whole. For some, seeing animals in captivity is what opens their eyes to a deeper appreciation of nature. I mean, I’m no exception. Back in the day my love for the ocean started in the Baltimore aquarium! But today, with more information and a bit more education on what this means for animal welfare—and not to mention the means to visit Roatán in the first place—we can make some better decisions on how we approach heightening our appreciation and knowledge of the natural world.
After a day at LFK, as we awaited our ferry back to mainland Roatán, a local shared a poignant reflection: "Honduras is one of the poorest countries in the Americas and has endured a lot." This reality had been evident during our journey across the country, as we were traveling by car. She added, "Yet Roatán draws people globally. It remains a diver's dream, despite the extensive damage our coral reefs have suffered. If you’re going to come here, put your money where it counts." There are numerous factors to consider when you’re traveling the world, and while we may not always get it right, the important thing is that we always try.
To be continued …
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