A long-held dream of mine has involved three unsuspecting elements: scuba diving (probably the least surprising of the lot), a volcanic lake in Guatemala, and a handful of eggs. And yes, I mean your run of the mill chicken eggs.This peculiar blend captivated my imagination, promising an adventure unlike any other I could have ever experienced without going on a 2-year global diving expedition around the world.
In April 2021, when I began organizing a two-year global tour focused on discovering positive oceanic conservation stories, I set specific criteria to guide our journey. First, we sought out "dive sites" known for their vibrant and flourishing marine life. Next, we looked for "marine aggregations"—events where various species gather, allowing us to observe their unique behaviors. Lastly, we searched for "living legends," individuals dedicated to safeguarding these marine animals and their habitats. These criteria were pivotal in shaping a route that would lead us through some of the most inspiring and ecologically significant areas of the ocean.
As I delved into the extensive process of searching, mapping, plotting, and planning our expedition, I discovered another thrilling aspect of the journey that became just as motivating as the other facets I’ve mentioned: what I deemed the “wild and wacky.” I encountered underwater experiences so unique and extraordinary that they demanded inclusion on our route. These included blackwater dives, where you plunge into the open ocean at night to observe vertical migrations, glacier diving from helicopters, exploring the shadowy depths of cenotes in Mexico, and scouring dark-water rivers in the USA for megalodon teeth. All things that heavily piqued my interest.
However, one particular wild and wacky experience stood out above all others, compelling me to pursue it regardless of the logistical challenges or the extensive detours it would require—and indeed, it ultimately reshaped our entire expedition plan. I was determined to dive in Lake Atitlán, Guatemala, a "somewhat" inactive volcanic region. My goal was not just to explore its underwater landscape but to engage in a unique activity: hard boiling eggs over the hot vents hidden beneath the lake's surface. This quirky yet intriguing task added an extraordinary layer to our adventure, blending the thrill of diving with the novelty of cooking eggs in nature's own kitchen.
This might sound a bit ridiculous—why would we reroute our entire expedition just to boil eggs underwater during a dive? Initially, the allure of diving often centers around megafauna—the charismatic species like whales, dolphins, or sharks that make people fall in love with the ocean in the first place. However, as your diving experience grows, so does your desire to seek out the unusual and expand your horizons. It's not about ticking items off a bucket list, it's about embracing the challenge of diving under diverse conditions, pushing your limits, and continually pursuing new learning opportunities. This unique dive at Lake Atitlán represented just that: an opportunity to enrich our diving experience and broaden our understanding of what it means to explore the underwater world.
Diving in Lake Atitlán, which plunges to depths of 340 meters, required us to become altitude certified, as the lake is nestled 1,562 meters above sea level. Altitude diving fundamentally changes the approach to scuba since the standard sea-level rules are inapplicable. Encircled by towering volcanoes, Lake Atitlán is heralded as one of the world's most stunning lakes. The youngest volcano, Atitlán, reaches 3,537 meters and has developed over the last 10,000 years, remaining active today. Tolimán, at 3,158 meters, is also active but has not erupted in human memory. The oldest, San Pedro, stands at 2,995 meters and has been dormant for 40,000 years. The dramatic backdrop and geological activity of this region fueled my fascination and heightened my anticipation for this dive of a lifetime. Simply put: I was obsessed with this whole scene.
Traveling the expanse of Central America along segments of the PanAmerican Highway, we entered Guatemala from Honduras, leaving Roatan behind. We parked our car in Flores—a town renowned for its spectacular fish dinners and breathtaking views—before catching a 45-minute flight to Guatemala City. From there, a three-hour drive took us to the culturally rich, Mayan-influenced region surrounding Lake Atitlán. A short 30-minute boat ride later, we arrived at our base for the next few days: La Iguana Perdida. This famed backpacker hostel in the quaint lake village of Santa Cruz is the only place in the area to charter professional scuba dives.
Staying in a hostel for the first time during our expedition felt like stepping into another world. It was a vibrant melting pot, with people from diverse backgrounds all converging in one place, all friendly and eager to engage. The warm welcome felt like reuniting with long-lost friends, and within moments of checking in, we were already blending into the hostel's lively atmosphere. Kicking off our stay with a tequila shot, we soon found ourselves studying for our altitude diving course, surrounded by the youthful energy of fellow travelers.
Santa Cruz, one of the eleven villages encircling Lake Atitlán, is renowned not only for its hostel but also for a plethora of adventure, health, and wellness activities hosted by the local team. Nearby, Panajachel serves as the main gateway for many visitors, featuring ferries that connect to various points around the lake. San Pedro, often dubbed the party town, attracts a crowd of backpackers with its vibrant nightlife and bustling social scene—and drugs, if you’re into that. For those drawn to a more bohemian lifestyle, San Marcos offers a serene retreat known for its iconic cliff-jumping spot. Meanwhile, Jaibalito captivates visitors with its laid-back atmosphere and deep immersion into the Mayan lifestyle, offering a tranquil escape from the more tourist-centric locales.
Although we wanted to jump off cliffs and mingle with the hippies, we were here for one thing and one thing only: the eggs. My research had hinted at a local tradition of boiling eggs using the lake’s geothermal vents. Yet, upon arrival, it seemed as though this tradition had faded into obscurity—none of the locals we initially spoke with knew what I was talking about. Everything changed when I met Deedle Ratcliffe, the founder of the hostel established in 1995. She reminisced about how egg boiling was once a common activity at the lake but noted that it had fallen out of practice in recent years. Learning this, I was even more excited to revive this unique tradition and reintroduce the egg boil to Lake Atitlán.
After a lesson on the differences between sea-level and altitude diving, we enjoyed a lively "family style" meal with the diverse group staying at the hostel. The evening was further fueled by meeting Deedle's son, who shared the rich history of the establishment, adding layers of context to our stay. We capped off the night by soaking in the breathtaking views of the surrounding volcanoes from our private room (an epic choice by the way), a perfect prelude to what awaited us the next day.
That morning, we drew faces on three eggs. Each egg featured a distinct expression: one brimmed with enthusiasm, another displayed a content smile, and the third—my egg, named "Steve"—looked nervous and apprehensive. Each egg got out of bed, put sunscreen on, and had pep-talks with their owners about the day ahead. "Steve" was particularly unprepared for his impending sit on the volcanic hot vents at 18 meters below the surface of Lake Atitlán.
While the lake maintains a general temperature of about 70°F (21°C), the vents we were targeting are direct conduits of heat from the surrounding active volcanoes. These vents create thermal anomalies so intense that simply placing a hand in the silt can result in feeling like your hand is burning—that’s how hot these bad boys can get!
So, our small dive crew donned borrowed early '90s dive gear that made us look like extras from an NSync music video. With our vintage outfits secured, we made our way to a small boat that would take us to our destination: a site aptly named Agua Caliente, or "Hot Water.” I’m sure you can guess the inspiration for the name.The dream of mine was finally happening, after years of wishful thinking. We were in the moment, living this out and I was beyond stoked (as you can see from the photo evidence here.)
Another facet of this tale I’ve failed to mention, is that above the water, I’m not much of a chef. And by not much of a chef, I’ll admit even the simplest of omelets seems to evade me on the surface. But I was determined to improve my cooking skills in the medium I felt most comfortable. At long last, I would deliver Adam a homemade breakfast he would be proud of. But I must be honest here because embellishing this story would not do it justice. Our eggs did not boil during the dive. We hadn't left them on the hot vents long enough—apparently, they would have needed a full 24 hours, as Deedle later informed us. Undeterred, once we returned to the hostel, we had the kitchen hard boil them for us. I eagerly bit into Steven’s head, seasoning him just to my liking. Adam was given another of my three eggs, and kindly gave me a pass for this attempt at cooking (despite the small amount of help I received to cook the eggs through in the end).
Surprisingly, they had a distinct flavor that seemed to carry a hint of volcanic ash—like a subtle taste of rock and mineral particles typical of a volcanic eruption. So, if you've ever wondered what a volcanic eruption might taste like, a trip to Lake Atitlán could give you a pretty good idea!
We achieved our altitude diving certification, embarked on an unconventional attempt to boil eggs underwater, and rerouted our journey to one of the most stunning places on Earth. Along the way, we forged incredible friendships and created indelible memories. And, in a testament to the generosity of those around me, everyone indulged my quirky dream. Though eggs were harmed throughout the process, and our stay at the lake was shorter than ideal, the experience was irreplaceable.
To those out there with big dreams, I urge you to chase them. The journey and its outcomes can be unpredictable, but they often lead to extraordinary experiences. Perhaps your path will also lead to La Iguana Perdida, where you might try your hand at boiling eggs in volcanic waters, creating unforgettable memories of your own. Perhaps next time I will lower the bar to try a soft-boiled egg instead. A special thanks to Steve, whose sacrifice added a unique flavor to our adventure—I’ll always remember you!
To be continued …
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