On a humid overcast morning, the team and I boarded a patrol boat, preparing for an unconventional excursion out into the bay. Those we were working with suited up in face masks, to shield their identities, and body cameras to capture every last detail of what the morning would have to offer. But this gear was less of a utility and more of a safety measure. Most importantly though, the team was wearing “Roatán Marine Park” gear to make it clear that—although you couldn’t identify who was behind all the clothes—it was in fact the infamous rangers that keep the island’s water safe.
Roatán, the largest of the Bay Islands in Honduras, sits in the Caribbean Sea and is renowned for its marine biodiversity and coral reefs. Characterized by its lush terrain and white sandy beaches, the island stretches approximately 48 miles long and less than five miles across at its widest point. Roatán's geography is marked by a rugged coastline, featuring secluded coves and expansive bays, which provide a natural haven for those obsessed with scuba diving. The island’s backdrop of dense, tropical hills offers a dramatic contrast to the clear turquoise waters that surround it, making Roatán a certified tourist hotspot.
But for those who knew Roatán before its tourist boom of the last decade, they’ll remember a stark contrast to the version of the island we see today. Dago, who has been patrolling with the Marine Park for nine years, referred to the island as a former remote paradise. He recounted that there once was so much life in these waters to the point that it was hard to navigate at times due to fish density. But today, that’s far from reality.
The Roatán Marine Park was established in January 2005 as a grassroots, community-based effort by local dive operators and businesses concerned about the alarming rate of reef degradation. In some cases, this decline of the reef was due to overfishing, but also due to the influx of people coming to the island looking for their next best vacation. So, this initiative aimed to protect the marine environment around Roatán, which is part of the larger Bay Islands National Marine Park. The park's creation marked a significant step towards preserving the area's rich biodiversity by putting bans on the types of fishing allowed in the area, and promoting sustainable tourism practices that were terribly needed with the rise of scuba diving in the country. But today, despite heavy community driven efforts and lots of solid enforcement practices, these waters and the rangers that patrol them, are far from safe.
Collaborating closely with the navy, Dago is on an every-day mission to address violations such as illegal fishing within protected zones, mangrove destruction, and damage to the reef. His job is challenging and often confrontational, exposing him to the harsh realities of environmental decline and the lengths some will go to exploit these vulnerable ecosystems. The extent to which locals truly understand the impacts of their harmful behavior towards the environment varies, but on the whole it’s less of a central concern to them. Ultimately, many are still engaging in this illegal fishing and resource depletion because for them, it’s one of the best ways to earn money and keep their families afloat.
Roatán was once an industrious fishing and sea-faring community, with both spearfishing and handfishing standing as the most sought after jobs. Today, much of the confrontation that Dago sees first-hand is locals explaining that, if they cannot fish, they cannot survive. Of every infraction that’s logged by Dago and team, 20% of them are considered hostile—as people’s livelihoods are at stake. In fact, tensions are currently so high that just a week prior to our arrival Dago received a death threat, and was held up at gun point at his son’s school.
And as mentioned before, it’s not just the illegal fishing and poaching that the rangers are monitoring: it’s the tourism too. And there’s two different issues that arise from the mass influx of human beings that are flocking to this tiny island in the Caribbean. First, tourists are flooding in from the cruise ships that post up around the island. At its peak, the beach swells with over 8,000 visitors, while each cruise ship that docks brings between 3,000 to 5,000 tourists in at a time. A recent arrival of the "Icon of the Sea" cruise ship brought a staggering 9,000 visitors on that boat ALONE to the shores of West Bay Beach. Amidst this overwhelming influx, there are rangers that bear the responsibility of safeguarding the reefs by patrolling the most heavily visited beacehes as part of the Marine Park’s enforcement efforts.
Similar to Dago, these beach patrollers have to confront tourists and locals whose behavior is threatening the reef in any way. However, they are usually met with positivity and concordance when it comes to those visiting the island. After all, most tourists are typically unaware that their behavior might jeopardize the health of the reef, and happy to comply. But this isn’t always the case. We even witnessed once such interaction while out on one of the iconic yellow patrol kayaks. Yet in spite of the inherent tension of the situation, we couldn’t help but admire how the rangers stayed calm regardless of the interaction. Dago said, “I have my ways of coping with things like this. You can’t let the small things bother you, or the off comments get you. You have to remember why you’re doing this in the first place. This is my home, these are my reefs and I want to do my part to protect it. Even if it’s just me out here.”
Dago was clear in saying there’s a lack of education around sustainable fishing practices, with many locals viewing spearfishing as essential for survival. This practice leads to overfishing and the sale of illegally caught fish, such as conch, lobster, and other seafood, to restaurants and hotels frequented by tourists. Despite signage at the airport hinting at these issues, most tourists remain unaware of the underlying problems, and that they are feeding into the cyclical issues here on Roatán.
Despite these challenges, the ranger team remains committed to their roles out to sea. Working tirelessly six days a week with minimal time off, Dago finds fulfillment in knowing that his efforts contribute positively to marine conservation. In spite of the occasional hostility, he still receives heartfelt appreciation from the community, which reinforces his dedication to making a difference. And because of this incredible dedication, they are seeing far less infractions than usual this year—with 65 infractions in the first half down to 24 in the second of 2023. They have been successful in patrolling 60 kilometers and seizing 447 lobster, queen conch and parrotfish last year.
To many in the community, Dago has seen it all, and is regarded as a “legend” in these parts. Throughout his tenure, he has dealt with a wide range of issues—from minor infractions that are quickly resolved to serious offenses that he’s either had to handle by himself or in some cases, with the help of the navy. Regardless, Dago is committed. It’s a dangerous and hard job, but he cannot see a world where he’s not doing this work. “I used to be a fisherman myself. Game fishing. We would catch and release. I’d travel with tourists to show them where to catch and that’s when I fell in love with the ocean. But I realized I wanted to do something that actually helps. So I’ve been working at the marine park ever since. There’s no other job better for me.”
The dedication to conservation is a common thread among the Marine Park staff, 99% of whom are of Honduran descent. Many team members are either natives of Roatán or have returned after living or studying on the mainland. This deep-rooted connection to the island fuels their commitment to preserving its marine environments. Whether they've always lived on Roatán or have come back armed with new skills and knowledge, they all share a profound appreciation for their roles in safeguarding the local waters that define their community and heritage.
On our final day on Roatán, we journeyed from the bustling west to the serene east of the island, showcasing the stark contrast between the developed areas and the untouched natural beauty that remains. As we moved eastward, the landscape transitioned dramatically. Fewer houses, tour operators, fast food joints, and hardly any people could be seen. Instead, the area boasted lush forests, crystal-clear waters and expansive sea grass meadows—all under stringent protection. Aboard the patrol boat, we navigated choppy conditions, riding the waves and marveling at the untouched scenery.
For many, Roatán is a beautiful destination, but for over 100,000 people, it’s what they call home. If you’re into scuba and you’re going to visit, as this place is on so many of our dive “must see” lists, each of us play a crucial role in the success of the Marine Park. By understanding local regulations, engaging respectfully with the ecosystem, and educating ourselves to the island's environmental challenges and history, we can make Dago and the ranger’s jobs significantly easier.
One direct way to support the ranger team is through donations. Funding shortages are a significant challenge in any capacity when it comes to the ocean. But here, it’s leaving patrollers to manage vast areas alone. The marine park offers a unique donation program where you can name your own dive site, with hundreds of named sites already marked on local maps. Funds raised are directly reinvested into conserving and protecting Roatán’s reefs, ensuring the island remains a dive destination for the generations.
If diving is your passion and you wish to support a cause that maintains a recovering marine paradise consider Roatán. Dive with the Marine Park’s certified operators, find a spot that resonates with you, and know that your contribution helps support the dedicated team protecting this precious ecosystem. You can directly help to empower these guardians to continue their vital work, ensuring they can do even more to preserve Roatán’s natural beauty long after we are gone.
To be continued …
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