As we trekked through dense forest, we passed lush plants that were ripe for eating. Davina pointed each edible option out with pride, as she was the keeper of what she called the “agricultural center” that fed all 6 of her immediate family members. Passing a pepper bush, I was brought back to a time in the jungles of northern Bali where I was sampling varieties that had my mouth numb and eyes watering for hours. Asking Davina about the heat profile of HER special peppers, she assured me that they were mild as can be.
Now naturally, as a fan of the heat, I was curious to try. Taking two off the bush, I crunched both simultaneously. Davina, along with her cousin, stared at me in complete silence for a few seconds too long. Soon after, they erupted with laughter and backed away from me slowly. Initial confusion soon led to my prank scenario kicking in: extraordinary heat engulfed my entire face moving swiftly down my entire body. I’d been got!
I should have expected this from Davina, as we were living with her 6,000-year old tribe for the last four days. She was the definition of a firecracker—from her humor to her mischievous ways. She was always down for a joke, especially at my expense. I had been speaking to Davina for nearly 5 months prior to meeting her. We would communicate over email whenever she made it into the tiny town of Hienghène—close to a 45 minute commute from her village called Tiendanite. By the time we met in person, it felt more like a reunion than a first meeting.
Davina had taken us on this trek to pick the necessary ingredients for dinner that night. Before venturing into the dense wilderness, we stopped to meet her mother, siblings and cousins. My unique inability to “tree feed”—or weave using palm leaves—had the group laughing at my expense yet again. This seemed to be a theme. We were using the palms to make baskets and plates for our dinner, as it was a special occasion. It was our last night in New Caledonia together.
This archipelago was never on our initial expedition list. Our limited knowledge of the region had us continuously skipping over it in our earlier planning discussions. It wasn’t until we met the Resilient Reef Initiative team with the Great Barrier Reef Foundation that opened our eyes to how much depth this nation carried above and below water.
Known for its vastness, the French territory has a total land area of approximately 18,500 square kilometers (7,200 square miles), including the main island, Grande Terre, and the four land masses called the Loyalty Islands. Also part of the country is Isle of Pines, known for its idyllic sandy beaches and towering trees.
What makes New Caledonia different from the rest of the Pacific islands is that it’s home to one of the largest lagoons in the world. Covering an area of approximately 24,000 square kilometers (9,300 square miles), the lagoon is so vast that it can be seen from space. It is the second-largest double barrier reef in the world, after Australia's Great Barrier Reef, stretching out along the western coastline. In 2008, UNESCO deemed it a protected site due to its diverse marine ecosystem of nearly 9,000 known species of plants and animals, with many of them being endemic to the region.
Needless to say, our ignorance about New Caledonia’s biodiversity had us quite curious to finally see it ourselves. Our plan was to start south and head north, where we would find ourselves surrounded by Davina’s hot pepper bushes.
South and north New Caledonia are two different worlds. The south reminded us of France in every way—from the streets, to the food, to the people. By the time we arrived in Nouméa, the nation’s southern capital, we had already been living in the remote wilderness for the bulk of our expedition. Feeling culture shock being in a small metropolis, we immediately felt the need to leave the city, and venture to the lush, remote Isle of Pines. It was time for us to get back into nature.
Île des Pins (in French), isn’t just a single island, but a collection of about 15 of them. When flying over the group, we were awestruck by the reef in full line of sight and the green islands that stood out in clear, blue water.
What we came to realize quickly was that here, the main island was not the main event. To truly see Isle of Pines, we had to get on a boat and head to the shallows. Meeting up with the owner of Kunie Dive Center—Pierre-Emmanuel Faivre—we were on a mission to explore the island group and find the striking leopard sharks that were rumored to be in abundance here.
Found in the Pacific—from the west coast of America to Mexico to the western Pacific islands—these sharks are shallow-water dwellers, known for their intricate patterns, incredible swimming ability and all around calm nature. Because of their non-aggressive behavior and their unique reproductive methods, New Caledonia has a healthy population of leopards.
However, in order to find them, we had to actually survive our scuba dives. With a negative descent, our small group plunged into chaotic currents, surprising all of us with its force. That’s the thing about the ocean—you never know what version you’re going to get and always have to be prepared for changing and difficult conditions. After the first day, we were so exhausted we could hardly make it off the boat like normal human beings. The next day proved to be even harder.
Endemic to New Caledonia, these ancient coniferous trees can grow up to 30 meters (100 feet) and are found throughout the Isle of Pines. Existing for over 200 million years, they are sometimes referred to as "living fossils.” One of the most distinct characteristics of the Araucaria is its whorled branching pattern. As the tree matures, its branches develop in circular arrangements around the trunk, giving the tree its column-like appearance. And like many incredible things in nature, it’s considered vulnerable to extinction outside of this small island group.
When British explorer Captain James Cook arrived in 1774, he named it "Isle of Pines" because of the rows and rows of these trees, used as navigational aids when traversing the islands. Because of this, many people refer to the trees as “Cook Pines.” However, far predating Cook himself, Araucaria trees have held—and always will hold—cultural importance for the Kanak people of New Caledonia. They are considered sacred and have been used for various traditional purposes over the centuries.
At the core of Kanak culture is the concept of "customary society," a communal way of life that fosters a strong sense of unity and collective responsibility. Their customary practices, rituals and governance structures reflect a deep respect for nature and an unwavering commitment to preserving the delicate ecological balance of their island home. After Isle of Pines, we were heading to Kanak country in northern New Caledonia. A long, yet worthwhile trek.
The five-hour drive from Nouméa to Tiendanite took us into the wild and raw side of New Caledonia—the side we loved the most. Upon arrival, Davina helped us offer a customary gift to the Chief of her tribe, giving us a chance to speak with the dynamic 87-year old who welcomed us to stay in his village. With his approval, we were invited to learn about the 200-person tribe’s history—one of the oldest intact Kanak communities.
When you enter Tiendanite, you can feel that something heavy has happened here. Something that will never go away. Davina said that come sunset, the tribe spirits feed down at the river that runs through the village. No one dares to go in the water at night, as disturbing the dead would result in serious consequences. It was hard not to believe this given the way we felt upon entering her village. The past was surely present.
The harsh story of the Kanak people is like many stories of indigenous oppression around the world. The arrival of European colonizers in the 19th century led to the appropriation of Kanak lands and resources. The Kanak dealt with dispossession, social inequalities, epidemics, forced work and culture devaluation.
However, the most discussed topic with Davina was resistance. Over the years, tensions between the Kanak people and the colonizers escalated, leading to various uprisings and movements. The struggle for land rights and cultural preservation sparked clashes that left a lasting impact on the social fabric of New Caledonia.
Davina talked about how, not so long ago in 1984, 10 members of her tribe were killed in one of these uprisings. Then in 1989, the long-reigning Tiendanite Chief and his brother were killed in a resistance movement as well. Memorials of burnt cars on the side of her village's dirt roads and a small and solemn graveyard were present so the fallen were never forgotten.
Today, the Kanak people face political disenfranchisement, with limited representation and participation within the governing bodies—which is the real divide of New Caledonia’s north and south. The struggle for political recognition and autonomy of those in the north remains an ongoing challenge.
Despite the hardship brought on by colonization, the Kanak people remain resilient and determined to protect their traditions. In recent years, significant efforts have been made towards reconciliation. Today, the Tiendanite tribe is peaceful and accepting, but according to Davina, the past cannot be erased. It’s what drives her people to stay aligned with their culture, heritage and forever home.
Their connection to their ancestral land is truly revealed through their traditions—especially their storytelling—which we were fortunate enough to experience first-hand when living with someone as expressive as Davina. The stories of struggle and stronghold left us profoundly moved.
The journey across New Caledonia reminded us that this nation, with its vast lagoon and vibrant biodiversity, is not merely a place for exploration—it’s a land cherished by its long-standing inhabitants. The history of modernization and the challenges faced by the Kanak community serve as serious reminders of the importance of respecting and understanding the perspectives and way of life of original custodians of any land we traverse.
It’s hard to get those towering Araucaria trees out of our minds, as they made a lasting impression. Instead of just being another species we saw on our voyage, or the "Cook Pines" as many know them to be, those trees are the heart of New Caledonia. They represent the rich heritage and cultural identity of the Kanak people—a legacy that continues to thrive amidst the beauty of this divided island country.
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