COLOMBO, SRI LANKA

SRI LANKA’S LUNGS

AUTHOR
Andi Cross
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Marla Tomorug
January 24, 2024
|
11 min read
Audio generated for accessibility using AI. Intonation does not express the true level of awe and stoke.

By the time we reached Colombo, Sri Lanka, we were hooked. But not for the reasons you’d expect. A typical tourist might come for the country’s highly sought after surf conditions, but there is so much more that meets the eye to this small island nation. And a great deal of this country’s appeal actually is entirely thanks to its geography. With a central location between the Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal, it’s become known as a hotspot for trade, shipping and of course, extraction.

Sri Lanka boasts rich biodiversity, featuring incredible ecosystems and one-of-a-kind wildlife congregations. Sadly though, whenever nature provides abundance or unique flora and fauna, there’s inevitably going to be human exploitation. But yet another stand out feature of Sri Lanka is the resilience of its people, and their understanding and commitment to safeguarding the country’s natural wonders. 

We partnered up with Lanka Environment Fund (LEF), an organization committed to helping local leaders and experts in conservation realize their visions and missions. Together, we would take a tour of Sri Lanka’s marine ecosystems and critical waterways, uncovering the power and uniqueness of this rich country. 

Initially bypassing the capital city, Colombo, we started our trek up the west coast heading north to the  Anawilundawa Sanctuary—about two and a half hours away from the city. Stepping foot onto a mangrove restoration project was our first experience with one of the many ecosystems of Sri Lanka. For those unfamiliar to mangroves, they are coastal ecosystems located at the junction of land and sea, characterized by salt-tolerant trees and shrubs that thrive in the intertidal zones of tropical and subtropical regions. 

These ecosystems are vital for coastal protection, acting as buffers against storm surges and erosion while also playing a crucial role in carbon sequestration, trapping carbon dioxide and helping mitigate climate change. Mangroves are biodiverse habitats, providing a breeding ground for a wide variety of marine and avian life, which makes the regions crucial nurseries for a wide variety of species. 

Their complex root systems not only stabilize the coastline but also filter pollutants from the water, enhancing water quality. The importance of mangroves extends to the local communities as well, offering harvestable resources like timber and fish, thus sustaining livelihoods and traditional ways of life. 

Sri Lanka’s west coast was once covered with some of the most incredible, dense mangroves on the entire planet.

But in the late 1990s, over 50% of the country's mangrove habitats were destroyed to facilitate prawn aquaculture projects, drastically impairing coastal ecosystem functions. Today, the mangrove cover in Sri Lanka is alarmingly low, estimated at only 15,000 to 19,000 hectares, a mere 0.3% of the total landmass. This reduction places the island nation at a heightened risk of the impacts of climate change and other natural disasters such as tsunamis and storm surges.

Despite the loss of many of its mangroves, Sri Lanka is still home to the Anawilundawa Sanctuary—a hidden gem located between the towns of Chilaw and Puttlam. This remarkable location brings together three diverse ecosystems: the coastal region, mangroves and freshwater tanks, creating an ecological combination that's varied and vibrant. 

Spanning over 1,397 hectares, Anawilundawa is more than just a sanctuary; it's an intricate network of nine human-made tanks developed from ancient irrigation and agriculture techniques. Of the tanks, there are six large, interconnected ones called Pinkattiya, Maradansola, Anawilundawa, Mayyawa, Surawila, and Vellawali, and three smaller secondary ones. 

These tanks now serve as restored habitats and sanctuaries for a plethora of wildlife—most notably birds and butterflies. There are over 150 species of water birds, 20 different species of mammals, including the elusive Rusty Spotted Cat and the Fishing Cat, and 74 species of butterflies! 

Upon arrival at the sanctuary, we were greeted by Thilina Kumarasiri, the Senior Research Officer with Wildlife & Nature Protection Society of Sri Lanka (WNPS). Thilina was spearheading a project called “Accelerated Natural Regeneration of Mangroves,” in partnership with LEF. A passionate eco-warrior, this lover of the mangroves has dedicated his life to bringing this special ecosystem back from its serious decline. 

Within the sanctuary there are significant threats, primarily from prawn farming activities. 

The ongoing destruction of these ecosystems not only harms the environment, but also undermines the livelihoods of local communities. To counter these challenges, comprehensive initiatives focusing on the regeneration and preservation of mangrove habitats have been implemented by this local team of scientists and students. 

The programs aim to scientifically restore mangrove coverage to its original state while simultaneously involving local communities in the process. By educating these communities on the importance of mangroves, the goal is to build sustainable, economically viable livelihoods based on the benefits that healthy mangrove ecosystems provide.

The first challenge was to rectify the aftermath of chemical usage and bacterial buildup from farming activity, which had rendered the soil barren and unhealthy. Carrying out core sampling as part of a series of systematic baseline surveys, the team first began to develop an intricate understanding of the underlying soil nutrients. 

Comparing the samples to the immediately surrounding vegetation, a number of assessments were carried out as to when and where the next planting efforts should take place. The intervention sought to accelerate natural processes and replicate the native ecosystem rather than just upfront “planting for the sake of planting”.

The WNPS program is essentially a robustly science based race to accelerate habitat restoration to pre-shrimp farm days, which is considered a critical step in reversing ecological damage. This endeavor focused on planting native and natural species of flora, meticulously guided by scientific principles that monitored chemical compositions, pH levels, carbon calculations, and other vital indicators.

The project challenges the conventional "plant a tree" concept, emphasizing the importance of planting the right species in the right areas at the right time, all based on historical and scientific data. While this approach may take longer to yield visible results, it ensures the restoration of natural habitats as seamlessly as possible, benefiting the broader ecosystem in the long term. It also avoids mistakenly planting invasive species that may not compliment or cooperate with the natural environment as it once was.

Remarkably, the restoration efforts have been effective even after only a single year, evident in the resurgence of natural tiny shrimp and "pioneer" bivalves (oysters). This rapid success rate signals a remarkable regeneration of the ecosystem. Not to mention, the initiative has allowed for further production of human-made goods, such as charcoal pencils, marshmallows, and seafood sauce. 

The marriage of mangrove regeneration work with income streams for the local community means that more support can be rallied from the ground up. 

Giving locals the opportunity to benefit from the project means that there will be more support and more opportunity, ultimately increasing the likelihood of holistic success. This approach, driven by science and a commitment to ecological revival, highlights the power of restoration and innovation in preserving our natural world.

One of the best parts of our time with Thilina was his reaction to what we were wearing upon arrival to the mangroves. Looking like we’ve just stepped off a yacht wearing sandals and shorts, we quickly came to the abrupt conclusion that our attire wasn’t going to bode. After all,we were about to trudge through knee deep mud. Handing us all some fun, yellow mud boots, we were soon in and among it, trying very hard to fit it. 

As for the mud, Anawilundawa is also a vital part of Sri Lanka's six RAMSAR Wetlands. Also known as a Ramsar Site, this refers to a wetland site designated under the Ramsar Convention—an international treaty signed in Ramsar, Iran, in 1971. 

These designated sites are recognized for their ecological significance and importance in terms of biodiversity, water resources and the overall health of the planet. The Ramsar Convention's primary objective is the conservation and sustainable use of wetlands worldwide, emphasizing their critical role in maintaining a balanced ecosystem. Ramsar Sites are protected areas where countries commit to preserving and managing these valuable wetland habitats. 

All around the country, Sri Lanka has wetlands that are part of RAMSAR, making it one of the leading countries in the world dedicated to protecting these crucial biomes. In 2018, Colombo was deemed the first capital city to be considered a designated “international wetland city.” Heading back to the city after our time up north, we met with an organization called Love a Tree Foundation—another LEF partner. Meeting Dr. Chethika Gunasiri, a postdoctoral researcher and environmental scientist, explained the work Love a Tree Foundation does when it comes to wetlands. Specifically, the urban wetlands. 

Chethika explained that urban wetlands, meaning those located in close proximity to cities, act as the so-called “lungs” of the city. The different ecosystems among these wetlands include lakes, woodlands, plant habitats, abandoned paddy land and reedbeds—all of which help to cool the air, purify the water, support urban agriculture and create interesting spaces for Colombo residents to connect with nature. 

But still these areas face mounting pressure due to urbanization, which inevitably results in harm for their environments.. Recognizing the need for human intervention, efforts are underway to protect and restore these urban wetlands. A paradigm shift is in effect, in that urban wetlands are now being integrated into future urban development plans from the outset, rather than being treated as an obstacle towards them.

Known as the Colombo Wetland Complex (CWC), the wetland ecosystem comprises 36 catchment areas, each playing a vital role in the region's environmental well-being. The Colombo Wetland Management Strategy is something that Chethika and her team help to support, offering the wetland ecosystems a chance to fully thrive. 

Of course, we knew in theory what an urban wetland was, but we had never been given such a hands-on crash course in  the significance of this type of ecosystem. So, at 6am on a foggy day, we ventured to see it for ourselves, by walking through a small but gorgeous wetland called Beddagana that sat right in the heart of Sri Lanka’s biggest city. 

It felt like we had been fully removed from the urban sprawl of Colombo and placed somewhere completely remote and far away. We couldn’t believe this much life was sitting right in the middle of it all, only 20 minutes outside of the city center in which we were staying. Birds, plants, butterflies—so much nature was around us—with a different feel than that of your average city park. It was even said that endangered fishing cats were roaming these wetlands at night, with some locals speaking of chance encounters with these rare and elusive animals having occurred during the pandemic. 

Chethika called the urban wetlands the “lifeline of the city that keeps the entire system working in harmony.” 

And over the past decade, significant strides have been taken in raising awareness about these critical ecosystems. The term "wetland" has become a buzzword in environmental discussions—very similar to that of mangroves. Looking ahead, the focus will be on promoting wetland-based tourism to further elevate the profile of these areas, allowing visitors to appreciate the rich diversity of species and landscapes they offer. 

In a 2016 study, the substantial value of these wetlands was quantified, revealing their multifaceted benefits. They save the city an impressive 15 million rupees annually, primarily through their capacity for water purification, which alone contributes 2 million rupees in savings. Additionally, these wetlands have an astounding tourism value, estimated at a staggering 1.6 billion rupees, making it clear their significance not only for the environment but also for the local economy.

Numerous NGOs, alongside Love a Tree Foundation and LEF, are actively engaged in various aspects of wetland conservation, each taking ownership of specific initiatives. Scientific research and data collection are indispensable tools in countering commercial interests that may threaten wetland ecosystems. Very similar to what we saw up north in the Puttalam region. 

After three weeks exploring Sri Lanka’s rich ecosystems, we could fully appreciate the analogy presented to us at the beginning of our journey. These critically important ecosystems are in fact, the “lungs” of their neighboring cities. Just as lungs are essential for breathing and sustaining life, the country's diverse wetlands, mangroves, and marine environments are vital for the wellbeing of both the environment and its people.

As we made our way south, we found ourselves craving more time in the wetlands—filled with a newfound appreciation for the delicate balance that exists in these remarkable ecosystems and a determination to contribute to their preservation and sustainable future.

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