When we think of the original female freedivers, our minds go to the Japanese Ama or the South Korean Haenyeo—groups who professionally dive on a single breath to collect shellfish and seaweed from the depths. These two groups of women have been diving in their home waters for centuries, and have generated a lot of interest around the world due to their skill, personalities and overall resilience.
The Ama, having garnered significant media attention, remain shrouded in mystery and intrigue, with many questions about them still unanswered. As we prepared to meet the Ama during our expedition chapter in Japan, our research piqued our curiosity about other women globally who might also practice such skilled skin diving techniques.
Fishing, as an industry and practice, has historically been male-dominated across various cultures worldwide. Men have traditionally occupied roles in offshore and deep-sea fishing, which are often perceived as requiring physical strength and being fraught with danger.
However, women's roles in fishing over the centuries, particularly in coastal communities, have been underestimated and underrepresented. In many regions—not just Japan and South Korea—women engage in inshore fishing, gathering of shellfish and the processing and selling of fishery products. Their involvement is crucial for their family's sustenance as well as keeping local economies thriving, even though these activities were not always recognized as "fishing."
While exploring the Solomon Islands, we stumbled upon a remarkable community of female divers, working in a tight partnership with the ocean. By sheer chance, we were introduced to these women as if the spirits of the archipelago knew we’re on an ever-present mission to find women who survive on their innate abilities and their single-breath holds. These women risk their lives with every dive, regardless the depths, to put food on the table for their families and communities.
Hailing from the island of Nusa Roviana which is located in Roviana Lagoon and next door to Munda, the women we encountered practice the timeless tradition of collecting seaweed and edible shellfish from the shallow reefs that define their lagoon's intricate system. Armed with nothing but skill and a diving mask, they duck dive from their paddle canoes, scouring the sea floor for their harvest.
The seaweed they gather is highly coveted, as their home is renowned as one of the best producing areas in the Solomons. Once harvested, it’s predominantly sold at the food market on Munda and is a source of nutrition for those living on the islands.
Munda, located on the western tip of New Georgia in the Solomon Islands, is both remote and uniquely captivating. Although it's the largest settlement on the island, Munda retains a secluded charm, untouched by urbanization in many ways. Surrounded by tropical forests and flawless lagoons, its economy primarily thrives on subsistence farming and fishing, with tourism not having taken full effect quite yet here.
However, not all seaweed is destined for local markets and caught from the wild. During our expedition, we visited Rarumana, where a different type of seaweed thrives. Here, the seaweed undergoes a drying process before being sold to local buyers, who then export it overseas. This is less of a traditional harvest and is considered aquaculture activity—which has its pros and cons.
On the positive side, seaweed farming can act as a carbon sink, absorbing and storing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, which helps combat climate change. It requires no freshwater, fertilizers, or arable land, making it an environmentally friendly form of agriculture. Seaweed can also be used in a variety of products, from food to biofuel, and its cultivation can provide economic opportunities for coastal communities. Job creation so that locals can generate income is especially critical here in the Solomons, along with many other island nations.
On the downside, if not planned sustainably, seaweed farms can lead to monocultures, which reduce biodiversity. Overharvesting and the introduction of non-native species can disturb local ecosystems. There are also concerns about contamination from potential water pollution due to excessive nutrient run-off and synthetic fertilizers. So, this needs to be managed rigorously to not cause more harm than good.
In Rarumana, we encountered an elder named Nairi, diligently working under the sun's blazing heat. Despite her evident exhaustion, she was genuinely smiling as she worked. She shared with us that the seaweed harvested here finds its way to the Chinese markets, which has been a huge player in the logging industry (among others) that have plagued the Solomon’s for years. For Nairi, it wasn't just about the work; it was the chance to be close to nature, the solace of her surroundings, and the quiet moments of reflection that seemed to bring her true contentment. It didn’t seem to phase her who she was working for or where the product was going.
But, it’s the seagrapes that really were the star of the Solomons. These aren't your typical vineyard grapes, but a form of what the women call “ime,” growing between 3-5 meters below sea level. With a growth period of just three weeks, the women paddle out on their canoes daily to harvest these grapes that come in three varieties—round, feathered and bell shaped—all from the same genus, Caulerpa.
This genus of seaweed is widely recognized for its unique and diverse morphologies ranging from fern-like to grape-like structures. Some species, such as Caulerpa lentillifera, are edible and are popular in various cuisines, especially in Asian dishes, which is how they got the name "sea grapes" or "green caviar."
However, some of these species have also been the subject of ecological concerns, as they can become invasive in non-native habitats, often due to aquarium releases. Once established, they can overgrow native seagrasses and algae, disrupting local ecosystems. This was far from the case in the Solomon Islands.
The women rotate through designated harvesting areas seasonally to avoid overpicking and allow for regeneration. This sustainable system is unique to them and their knowledge only resides within their community. Their methodology can only be conducted by the women in the role—no outsiders are allowed. As younger women join this tradition from within, they are mentored by the experienced divers to ensure these sustainable practices continue and those newly appointed to the role don’t stray from the practice. In doing this, the more seasoned women not only protect their resources but also maintain control over their territory.
The sea grapes are exceptionally delicate. Once harvested, they must be swiftly shielded with a large leaf to protect them from the sun, which can rapidly degrade their quality. The women emphasize the need for precision, focus, and care every step of the way, or their harvest might not yield the best results. Their nuanced understanding of the sea grapes, paired with their practiced technique, ensures the preservation of this precious source of life and their success in the markets.
Once picked—which can take up to an hour—they're brought back to the village for a meticulous cleaning process. A process that is just as long as the women are out on the water on a given day. That’s because cleanliness means money. As consumers become more discerning, they recognize and reward those who offer the cleanest grapes. This has spawned a form of healthy competition among the producers. By the end of every harvest day, each woman generally returns with four baskets brimming with these prized grapes.
We had the unique privilege of meeting four divers who took us out to show us their ways. Sarah, Talia, Lydia and Naola quietly and carefully walked us through their process, showing off their findings. They explained that they would receive $5 per bunch, especially for the cleanest grapes, with some of their pickings going to Honaria, the largest city in the Solomon Islands.
Each woman observed and then navigated the water with an expertise that only comes from years of experience. Their movements were efficient and thoughtful, honed from countless dives in these waters. It was evident that their relationship with the ocean went beyond just harvesting; it was deeply rooted in familiarity, appreciation and respect. It was like they forgot we were there as they worked. Keeping quiet and to themselves, their skillful collection method was their main and only focus.
When you meet women with such a visible commitment to the ocean, who have found a way to genuinely coexist with it, your perspective on resilience and dedication is altered. The women of the Nusa Roviana community epitomize the very essence of harmonious living with the sea. Their profound relationship with the ocean, backed by generational knowledge, showcases a symbiosis that is both rare and inspiring—yet fundamentally critical at this point in time. If we can’t get back to basics, to some degree, we are going to face the planetary perils that many have been shouting from the rooftops for years.
Sarah, Talia, Lydia and Naola, along with countless other women divers around the world, represent the potential for sustainable living. Their practices are a stark reminder that true sustainability is not about exploiting nature but nurturing and respecting its bounty so that the cycle of life can continue effortlessly.
In an age where modernity often distances us from our natural environment, these women give us hope. Their stories, traditions and practices highlight the significance of maintaining a connection with our planet and remind us of the urgent need to champion and preserve such sustainable ways of life. The ocean, with all its vastness and mysteries, has so much to teach us, and we must take the time to listen, learn and advocate for those who keep its ancient stories alive.
To be continued …
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