As our seaplane departed from mainland Malé, we soared over turquoise waters and pristine, near-white sand beaches with dramatic, deep blue drop offs surrounding them. This breathtaking view, often synonymous with luxury, confirmed our arrival in the famed Maldives.
Preparations for this particular expedition chapter took a substantial amount of time, given the complexities of navigating this archipelago country. According to UNESCO, the Maldives, “supports one of the largest groups of coral reefs in the Indian Ocean, and acts as a stepping stone for the transport of planktonic larvae of reef organisms from the western and eastern Indian Ocean.” Comprising 1,192 coral islands within 26 natural atolls (organized into 21 administrative units) and influenced by two distinct monsoon seasons, there was a lot to consider when consciously exploring the Maldives.
The term "atoll" in English traces its origin to the Maldivian language, deriving from the Dhivehi word "Atholhu," denoting a ring-shaped coral reef enclosing a body of water, such as a lagoon. A year later, we were touching down on Raa Atoll, often overshadowed by its more popular neighbor, Baa Atoll.
Baa’s big draw is Hanifaru Bay—a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve—where reef manta aggregations are seen during the south-west monsoon season. The mantas flock here for feeding, cleaning and protection from predators. Because of this, the area has gained so much popularity, to the point it's considered a cornerstone hotspot in the Maldives. Choosing to diverge from the famed tourist route, we set our sights on Raa Atoll—intrigued by how little is known about this area.
We landed on Maamunagau Island, warmly welcomed by our hosts, whose roles shifted quickly from professional partners to forever friends. Our week was spent collaborating with the Manta Trust, including Meral Hafeez (Project Manager), Emily Hoad (Assistant Project Manager) and Humaam Nihad (the newest intern). This was alongside Svenja Rehbein (Director PR & Marketing Communications) with InterContinental® Maldives Maamunagau Resort—the Manta Trust’s luxurious base camp.
Founded in the UK in 2005, The Maldives Manta Conservation Programme (MMCP), is a Maldives-registered charity and is the Manta Trust’s flagship research project. After two decades of research across this island nation, the MMCP has evolved into one of the largest and longest-standing manta ray conservation groups in the world.
With a diverse group of researchers, scientists, conservationists, educators and media professionals, the organization thrives on pooling collective knowledge and expertise to do their work. And three core principles guide all that they do.
First, they engage in comprehensive, sustained scientific studies to lay the groundwork for informed marine management decisions by authorities, NGOs and conservationists. Next, they leverage the manta rays' status as charismatic megafauna—serving as an emblematic species that drives the broader narrative of marine ecosystem preservation. And lastly, with 29 projects across the globe, the Manta Trust emphasizes collaboration.
Their modus operandi involves partnering with diverse stakeholders, from businesses and governments to communities and local leaders, to champion conservation. Through this overarching perspective, mantas become agents of change, enlightening individuals about the actions required to ensure marine life and their ecosystems are thriving for generations to come.
This team’s research environment was distinctly different from what we had seen thus far on expedition. We had just been living on a remote research island that had little to no resources upon our arrival in the Maldives, which offered a stark comparison. This setting provided Meral, Emily, and Humaam with extraordinary access and opportunities, significantly elevating their conservation efforts.
The resort itself was a perfectly curated masterpiece. Every element, from the exquisite cuisine and attentive staff to the luxurious villas and their detailed craftsmanship, was designed to create an unmatched experience. And this attention to detail extended to everyone on the property—from staff to guests. Simply roaming the resort grounds was an experience in itself.
For us, this was the first time we found ourselves in a resort setting since being on expedition. Being given a wet cloth to wipe our faces down upon arrival felt like the grandest luxury that we celebrated for a a few hours too long. But coming from where we were prior—sleeping in huts with mattresses on the floor—made every little detail at the resort pop.
The urban environments of Hong Kong and Japan had previously offered a different perspective on the "edges of earth.” And this was yet another version, introducing us to the intersection of ocean conservation and the luxury sector—a perspective not yet explored. This shed light on the varied approaches to conservation, highlighting how different settings can influence strategies and outcomes.
Every morning, we would delve into the realm of manta conservation by integrating with the research team's daily operations. Aboard their vessel, we gained an understanding of the mantas' significance in the larger marine ecosystem and why their work wasn’t just about studying a single species. They regard mantas as what they called a "gateway" or "flagship" species, pivotal for drawing global attention to broader marine conservation issues.
Meral said it perfectly, “We must see the ocean as an interconnected system and adopt a holistic conservation approach. While it's tempting to focus solely on prominent species like mantas or whale sharks due to their size and charisma, the bigger picture is vital. The presence of mantas relies on a delicate balance—from water conditions to the health of reefs and the availability of tiny and again, often overlooked food sources, such as plankton. To disregard the smaller things in the sea would ultimately disregard the mantas too.”
While mantas dazzle, it's the entire ecosystem that is sustaining this island nation for the long run. It's easy to overlook the vital role of corals or even forget they're living entities. However, with Meral's guidance, the importance of each component in the oceanic web became even more evident. She explained that any disruption can trigger a domino effect, and her team's mission is to safeguard against such collapses in this fragile marine environment.
In recent years, with tourism emerging as the main economic force, there's been a rapid increase in luxury resort developments across the Maldives. This destination now caters to a wide range of desires, from guests who wish to bask on beaches to those eager to swim alongside mantas. For those willing to venture beneath the surface, there's a unique chance to gain a deeper appreciation of the ocean's holistic ecosystem.
Svenja, with nearly a decade of experience in the Maldives, recounted the days preceding the luxury tourism surge. The country was once regarded as a rugged, remote haven for avid divers, largely untouched and off the beaten path. However, the increase in luxury tourism has brought its share of environmental challenges. As more people, often with limited ocean awareness and understanding, seek marine interactions, tourism’s impact on the local ecosystem has become a growing concern.
Properties like the Maamunagau Resort recognize there needs to be a connection between luxury tourism and conservation. Guests have opportunities to engage with an active research team and gain firsthand insights that they otherwise wouldn’t get at other properties throughout the atoll (or the country for that matter). Conservation teams can either try to fight the luxury travel boom or integrate in. When taking the latter approach, it’s an opportunity to bring more people closer to the sea in a time where ocean awareness and interest is needed more than ever.
Experiencing a manta up close can profoundly change one's perception of the ocean, and in some cases, spark a lifelong commitment to the sea. Meral, Emily, and Humaam each had their own transformative moments that set them on their current paths—something they try daily to recreate for the others.
Humaam's childhood revolved around the ocean, and this proximity sparked his interest in conservation from a very early age. His first role was working alongside Maldivian whale shark experts, which was when he had his first encounter with a charismatic species. Meanwhile, Emily's first manta sighting in the Maldives ignited her curiosity about the mysteries of the ocean, solidifying her commitment to exploration and discovery. Meral transitioned from pursuing a career in law after a pivotal experience in coral conservation—relocating her to the Maldives to chase her true calling.
Meeting individuals dedicated to reshaping our view of the ocean is undeniably inspiring. Their passion is infectious and their energy is contagious—both giving us hope for a sustainable future. But, in order to work towards futureproofing the planet, we need to fully comprehend the urgency of the present. The Maldives is a perfect example of a country sitting at the forefront of the climate crisis that needs always-on action happening right now.
Humaam, a Maldivian national, stressed how important it is for the hospitality sector to prioritize conservation and immerse their guests in it. To him, the health of the ocean and sustainable tourism are entirely linked, as these two factors are what will ensure the success and stability for his country. Without tourism, locals are out of jobs. And without the ocean, there is no tourism in the Maldives.
The rich yet fading Dhivehi language beautifully encapsulates every nuance of the sea, emphasizing the ocean's significance in this region. Dhivehi is poetic, with multiple words used to describe a single ocean creature and the way it behaves. To Humaam, to safeguard the ocean is to ensure humanity's survival—a perspective that’s been ingrained in him since his very start.
With the Maldives hosting 1.6 million visitors in 2022, there's ample opportunity to educate on conscious exploration. For example, tourists can opt to stay with conservation-focused properties that Svenja works with; gain a deeper understanding of charismatic species from the pros like Emily or; engage with local changemakers like Humaam. Such experiences not only prompt better care for the planet but also deep personal introspection and hopefully, long-term growth.
Each day, as we made our way back to the Maamunagau Resort, we were left pondering the bigger questions surrounding our natural world. After experiencing the true beauty of these creatures up close over consecutive dives back to back, the fight to protect them has never felt more significant. So what can we do?
It’s up to us to look at the total picture of our lives, just like how we need to look at ocean ecosystems, and find ways of interjecting ocean conservation and restoration into the picture. From the harder things like considering what we do professionally, to the easier things like choosing to travel more consciously. Regardless of scale or size, we need to find ways of giving back to the planet that has given us so much.
We knew departing Raa would be hard. We were going to miss the deep conversations, the laughs, and the life-altering dives we shared with this group. Encountering individuals with similar passion creates bonds not easily forgotten. These are the relationships we cling to, already anticipating where in the world our paths will cross next.
As our seaplane took off, leaving this lesser-known atoll behind us, it was evident how profoundly we were impacted by this one. One week, fully immersed in research and the beauty of the Maldives, gave us a powerful, new narrative to share throughout our expedition. One of coexistence, conscious exploration and hope for a better future that we found under the Maldivian sun.
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