Even the pouring rain and dark of night can’t stop the hustle of the busiest seafood market in Sri Lanka’s fishing capital, Negombo. We found ourselves in the middle of this extraordinary market in these less than ideal circumstances, and the situation was hectic to say the least.
Surrounded by fresh fish and packed with eager buyers and sellers, the market was like a nightclub, nearly impossible to hear one another unless we were talking face-to-face. But it was here we first crossed paths with the seafood chef, Elizabeth Norris, who began to share her incredible story.
Negombo is known for sourcing some of the finest seafood in south Asia. This city’s reputation was a significant factor in Liz's decision to settle here. Having trained as a chef in London, she always felt a personal connection here through her Sri Lankan mother.
And Liz's annual visits to her family in Negombo had further cemented her affinity for the place. It was here, amidst the bustling seafood markets and rich culinary heritage, that she envisioned opening her own seafood restaurant, and turning her lifelong connection into a professional pursuit.
Our rendezvous with Liz in the pulsing heartbeat of Negombo’s community was no coincidence. She was there to meet her local fishing partners, scrutinizing the day's catch and meticulously grading each fish that caught her eye. Liz, known for her sophisticated palate and attention to detail, is recognized as both a stringent, yet fair critic.
This reputation was evident in the market, where everyone familiar with her knew of those high standards and sharp eye for quality. Her presence and interaction with the vendors reflected her deep involvement and respected expertise in the local seafood industry.
Navigating through the market with Liz, it was clear how much influence she wielded among the traders. Despite her relatively small stature, the towering fishermen seemed to effortlessly part ways for her, each vying for her attention or a nod of approval. This amusing scene spoke volumes about Liz's years of hard work in establishing her presence in the local seafood community. Her credibility and reputation, clearly well-earned, were on full display as we moved from one salesman to the next.
In her quest for top-notch seafood, Liz's restaurant ethos centers around quality as much as it does local and sustainable sourcing. She has built a network of trusted partners, ensuring she knows the origin, catch method, and handling of each fish. She even has a go-to-guy for cleaning, scaling and fileting her fish, that is if she doesn’t take on the task herself. This dedication is a testament to Liz's passion for not just cooking but the entire journey of seafood from ocean to plate.
For her perfectly curated menu, she needed the perfectly curated space. After an extensive search, she discovered a gem: one of Negombo's oldest historic colonial houses, conveniently located just four minutes from the fishing docks. This discovery felt like destiny. But no big dream ever comes easy. She had to work for it.
Following negotiations with the original owner, Liz's valiant resolve paid dividends, and she secured the 1940s building. After that, Liz’s dream restaurant, C LU B.Ceylon, was born after an eight-month renovation phase managed by Liz.
The establishment isn't just a restaurant; it also serves as her house and office, completely embodying her passion for her work. Nestled in the historic heart of Negombo, the building, noted in architectural publications, is as much a marvel as Liz's culinary creations, making it a standout destination in the city.
She was eager to both assess the fresh stock and introduce us to the bustling AM rush, promising it would surpass the evening's activity. Unsure of what awaited us but nonetheless excited for the experience, we agreed to reconvene early the next day.
True to her word, the markets were a whirlwind of activity. Liz guided us through Negombo's entire seafood district, where each market bore specific significance to her. From the wet to the dry markets, we saw fish of all varieties, each with unique means of delivering and packaging even. She pointed out the places she seeks out for her regular purchase, and those she avoids. And for those she avoids, there’s a good reason. One we were shocked to see firsthand.
Our visit to arguably the largest market in Negombo revealed a dark reality: tiger sharks, manta rays, hammerhead sharks, eagle rays, tuna the size of Liz’s body and other remarkable marine species, all lifeless, were on display. Far from being shunned, with cameras in hand we were invited in, shown around by fishermen proudly presenting their catch. This experience shed light on Liz's motivation to establish a different kind of seafood restaurant, one focused on sustainability.
Liz's chosen fishermen in Negombo are knowledgeable about their catch, the seasons, and sustainable practices. Yet, alongside these conscientious efforts, other operations indiscriminately extract flagship species, highlighting a pressing need for more robust and adhered-to fishing regulations and guidelines.
Liz's vision for C L U B. Ceylon extends beyond its menu; she aims to catalog seasonal species and influence market demand as well as bypass the intermediary traders only interested in profits. Her theory is that if she stops buying certain species like manta rays, it might shift fishermen's catch choices. Although the restaurant is still establishing its influence, she’s working towards this goal knowing that fishermen currently have other available markets (such as export) to sell to.
Within her network of trusted partners, sustainable practices are already the norm, and it’s a tradition they uphold independently. Liz's broader mission is to expand this sustainable ethos throughout Negombo's fishing community. She also supports this approach by employing local seafood foragers and freedivers, ensuring her supply chain is both alternative and sustainable. It’s not uncommon for producers to knock on the restaurant door at times, presenting fresh and local produce of all kinds.
There are movements around the world pushing a seafood-free diet, which simply isn't feasible for many, particularly those living in Sri Lankan coastal communities. Here, seafood is one of the main means for survival. Liz advocates for a balanced approach, emphasizing the importance of understanding ocean ecology and fishing sustainably.
"We need to know which fish are in season and plan our catch accordingly," she explained. The fishermen she collaborates with embody this principle, taking only what's needed and marketable. "Our fishing isn't indiscriminate. It's about eating well, thoughtfully and sustainably," she said, highlighting a responsible approach to seafood consumption that supports both community needs and marine conservation.
Liz's commitment to selecting only the highest quality, seasonally appropriate seafood is reshaping market standards in Negombo. By adhering to these stringent criteria, she's not only influencing local practices, but also educating both residents and visitors. Her approach, celebrating Sri Lanka's marine bounty, keeps her menu dynamic and engaging. This strategy benefits not just her patrons but also invigorates Liz and her team, ensuring that her culinary offerings are as sustainable as they are diverse and intriguing.
At C L U B. Ceylon, Liz's personal touch extends to her staff, all of whom she has trained carefully herself passing on mantras previously ingrained in her by some of the top chefs of London. “Make it nice, or make it twice” she would instruct her staff. This approach not only ensures consistency in service and cuisine but also opens job opportunities, particularly for women in the community. Comprising an all-Sri Lankan team with an emphasis on female empowerment, the restaurant reflects Liz's heritage, blending Sri Lankan traditions with influences from her birthplace in England.
Settling in for a meal hand-selected by Liz, our anticipation was through the roof for this culinary experience we had discussed for days. The shared plates, especially the raw lagoon prawns, the crispy seaweed covered oysters, surprisingly tender and juicy sardines with lemon and the seaweed buttered bread blocks, were highlights. Each dish lived up to the vivid descriptions Liz had provided, leaving us thoroughly impressed.
The combination of exquisite food and the perfect ambiance was elevated by Liz's presence, dining with us and offering insights into each dish as it was tabled. It was a unique experience to share a meal with an emerging chef of her caliber, who brought every bite to life with her detailed narratives.
The Lanka Environmental Fund (LEF) team introduced us to Liz to complete our understanding of the seafood supply chain. Having witnessed traditional fishing methods in Mannar Island (in the remote northwest of Sri Lanka), meeting Liz in Negombo provided a different perspective. She demonstrated how collaboration with fishermen could strike a balance between fulfilling culinary aspirations and respecting environmental sustainability. This experience emphasized the possibility of harmonious coexistence with our marine ecosystems, bridging the gap from catch to kitchen.
Liz admitted it would be easier to get a freezer and get all ingredients delivered by truck to the door the way many others in her industry do. It would save her time, effort and energy. But that’s not the point. Her job is to redefine the standards for seafood restaurateurs, shift the zeitgeist to favor sustainability practices, and drive meaningful change in a place that she now calls her home.
“Over the years that I’ve lived in Negombo, I’ve worked tirelessly alongside my team to find the best fish and the best fishermen to bring a produce-led restaurant to Sri Lanka. We let the ingredients speak for themselves, cooking honestly and simply, with a no-fuss, just tasty menu. An incredible amount of work goes on behind the scenes to continuously source the best for you, our guests,” said Liz. And this was apparent in every possible way, certainly to us.
Departing from C L U B. Ceylon, we felt a surprising sense of attachment considering our brief acquaintance with Liz. In less than 48 hours, a lasting connection was forged, leaving us uncertain about when we might meet again but certain of the friendship we had established.
Our encounter with Liz in Negombo, a city both beautiful and timeless, was a testament to the value of meeting people who enrich and expand our perspectives. This experience, a serendipitous blend of conscious exploration and culinary discovery, will remain a cherished memory from our journey.
To be continued …
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