There’s been no shortage of great conversation on the Edges of Earth expedition. In fact, contrary to what you might think, we’ve made so many amazing connections from location to location, despite many of them being the most remote ones out there. Proof that the love of the ocean is our great connector.
It’s been uncanny the similarities between our team and the rotating cast on the expedition, the sentiment of kindred spirits, and the shared passions among those we’ve met. And despite it happening again and again as we explore consciously, none of us thought we’d forge such bonds with the people on the faraway Maamunagau Island in Raa Atoll, Maldives.
Planning the Edges of Earth expedition, I was immediately drawn to the Maldives with a clear intent: to delve into the protection and conservation of manta rays. In January 2022, I reached out to the Manta Trust, a nonprofit founded in 2005 with their flagship effort called the Maldives Manta Conservation Programme. They have become the leading authority when it comes to rays, committed to ensuring mantas and their kin flourish in vibrant marine ecosystems around the world.
We always anticipated that experiencing a manta in the wild could be transformative. These larger and more recognizable aquatic species can profoundly deepen one's connection to the ocean due to their charismatic nature, incredible stature and unyielding mystery. Our team’s view is that seeing is believing. And once you believe, the desire to protect becomes instinctual. We were on a quest to have one of those life-altering manta encounters while traversing the edges of earth.
According to the Manta Trust, the Maldives is home to one of the world's largest populations of reef manta rays, with numbers estimated at around 5,700 individuals. Located in the Indian Ocean, the Maldives comprises 26 atolls which form a haven for these majestic creatures. The region's unique bathymetry, especially around the Baa and Raa Atolls, attract large gatherings of reef manta rays, particularly between May and November during the southwest monsoon season.
Hanifaru Bay in Baa Atoll, a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, is one such renowned site where hundreds of reef manta rays come to feed, making it a hotspot for snorkelers and freedivers. But then, there’s the lesser known Raa Atoll, which arguably has more reef mantas from time to time. That’s why the Manta Trust team is pushing for the creation of a Marine Protected Area (MPA) within the atoll—specifically for the areas of Fenfushi and Maamunagau—which would be game changing for this cluster of islands.
What started out as a few emails back and forth turned into fast friendship. Especially between myself and Meral Hafeez, the Project Manager leading the Manta Trust initiative in Raa Atoll.
From our three-hour dinners to our long days out on the research boat, our conversations started with manta rays and ocean conservation and ended with finding purpose in life. The research boat prompted introspection about how to best utilize our time, energy and knowledge when attempting to reverse humanity's environmental impact through individual and collective action.
While the sunset beach walks at the exceptional InterContinental Maldives Maamunagau Resort—where the Manta Trust was located—brought out discussions around how to travel consciously and simply just do better. We talked about positive progress, we talked about our heartaches and we talked about what the future holds.
While some of our discussions were quite somber—rising sea levels, ocean acidification, declining species, plastic pollution and the pangs of over-tourism—the surrounding beauty managed to uplift our spirits. With pristine ocean views and what felt like endless, untouched islands all around us, it was hard not to acknowledge the vibrant marine world found on every dive. Each one acted as our daily reminder that there’s so much worth protecting.
Meral and her team enlightened us on the significance of coral reefs, the role of mantas and the unsung importance of plankton. In return, we recounted stories from our expedition, detailing all the different ways we’ve seen others contribute to the blue planet. A true friendship was taking shape between these two teams, with the act of sharing and keeping an open mind bringing us closer.
Our team presumed that partnering with a NGO dedicated to manta rays would lead to week-long discussions solely on that subject. And yes, we did spend an absorbent amount of time nerding out about manta rays. For hours we searched for them on the top deck of the research vessel and genuinely celebrated any chance we got to dive with them.
Yet, our conversations consistently circled back to the significance of human connection. These mantas were bringing out our deepest side, pushing us to really think about how we show up and how we want to contribute. It was impossible not to go there when seeing such exceptional creatures underwater. We were in awe of Meral and the team for bridging their work and passion every day, and finding their way back to the sea as much as possible, amidst unavoidable societal pressures.
Cultivating these kinds of connections sparks hope and fuels enthusiasm. We forget about the importance of human interaction when we are trapped behind our computer screens and cell phones all the time. A culprit that takes us away from time in nature and pursuing our deepest passions. When we turn off our phones, put our computers down, and get out on the dive boat, incredible relationships can form, unobstructed by everyday expectations and requirements.
Realizing there are so many individuals around the globe pushing boundaries to champion their beliefs and promote planetary welfare is heartening. Throughout our expedition, we've discovered these dedicated individuals are not hard to find if you’re willing to go searching for them. And once connected, it's vital to nurture these relationships with all that you’ve got. The undivided attention, the active listening and the willingness to share is what can inspire the most action and the most significant change.
As we entered the last few days of our time in the Maldives, all of us were thinking the same thing: what was life going to be like next? How do we pull apart this epic team of six? Would we see each other again? And if so, where in the world would that be?
We’ve found that when we’re thinking like this upon our departures, the closing chapter can be considered a huge success. And, it usually marks the start of something quite special. The initial thoughts about what the Maldives would be like were blown out of the water by this team of manta loving, coral obsessed, thalassophiles. We left with a deeper appreciation for mantas than we already had, that’s for sure. But we also left with full hearts and minds, and a new sense of respect for the larger ecosystem as a whole.
The Manta Trust taught us that, if we focus only on charismatic species with tunnel vision, we miss out on a full ecosystem that is so alive with life—from the smallest coral polyp to the biggest manta ray. There are parallels to this when thinking about how we interact with one another. If we only care about people when they are giving us something we want momentarily, and we do not think about what we provide to them in return, we miss out on the depth of what life really has to offer.
Similarly, if you go to a destination just to check off predefined “must see” boxes, then you’ve missed the point. To consciously explore means to give back just as much as you are given. To listen and learn, while taking away lessons that bring you closer to our natural world and each other, not further away.
We knew this single truth from the start, but it was entirely validated by our time spent on Maamunagau Island: this expedition is about the people. For as much as we love the gateway species that fascinate us, it’s the people on the frontlines of conservation that truly move us.
While it might be a marine animal that gets us excited about the ocean, it’s the people who you meet along the way that inspire you to keep going. Especially when you’re feeling some degree of heartache, which none of us had a hard time sharing as we walked along the beaches at sunset. No matter how hard your individual fight for conservation and restoration might be, it's important to remember you’re not alone. There are people all over the world pushing for the same change—from epicenters to coastal communities to scattered atolls in the Indian ocean.
To be continued …
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