With its proximity to the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, visiting Belize was a must. In fact, the diving here is so profoundly epic, that this was actually one of the first locations to investigate upon the Edges of Earth Expedition’s inception. And with that, we sparked an ongoing collaboration with the Great Barrier Reef Foundation, taking particular interest in their Resilient Reef Initiative. By June 2023, we were already in discussions with our Belize point of contact and the face of the efforts of Reef Resilience Strategy of Belize, Tara Scarborough.
Tara and I had established something of a rapport through our numerous exchange of emails that subsequently became phone calls. With that, I’d grown eager to finally meet the woman I’d grown so accustomed to corresponding with. And more than anything, I hoped by the time I left Belize that I’d be able to call Tara a newfound friend.
Off the bat, we were excited to learn that Tara had nothing less than a grand plan for us while in Belize. She wanted to show us EVERYTHING. In order to make that happen, she tapped into the vast network of collaborators she amassed throughout her career, many of whom lifelong acquaintances, and other knowledgeable folks who could speak on behalf of Belize's ocean. But more than anything else, Tara chose people who could illustrate the rich cultural tapestry of Belize and demonstrate why this place exudes such infectious energy, attracting visitors from around the globe to experience it firsthand.
And Belize was no exception to this. Exploring the edges means embracing the hustle, and Tara was putting our endurance to the test—she had us covering every corner. It quickly became clear that "everywhere" also meant the places that held the most significance to her: her old stomping grounds, her people, her home. Witnessing someone thriving in their community and eager to show us the intimate details that others might not have the opportunity to see is an honor. It also sparked our curiosity about how someone so young had managed to gain such extensive access so quickly.
At just 26, Tara seemed to know everyone. From restaurant owners to boat captains to dive operators, she was fully plugged in. Whenever we were running late for a ferry or needed a pit spot for some epic Belizean food, Tara had us covered. Her integration into so many communities throughout Belize had clearly been an ongoing effort. She started working at a young age and forged connections by proving her strong work ethics early, and often. Before we arrived, I was pretty sure I was getting on her nerves with my constant questions and barrage of messages. But after a year of back-and-forth communication, I had a strong feeling we’d end up friends. In fact, I was certain of it.
Her straight-shooting, “here to get things done” attitude vibed perfectly with the team, and especially with me. I could appreciate her project management mindset, always ready to tackle any challenge. Plans often need to be changed last minute given the unpredictability of working with many partners onsite and mother nature—it’s a common occurance on the edges and inevitable when juggling numerous projects, teams, initiatives, people, and transport modes. But we were fortunate to realize that Tara had gone above and beyond to account for the precariousness of expedition life.
To kick things off, we started inland near the border of Belize and Guatemala, at San Ignacio to learn about Mayan culture. We explored impressive ruins and received a deep dive into the area's rich history. From there, we drove across the country to Belize City, using it as our base for a day trip to Goff's Caye to study local conservation efforts. This part of the journey helped us grasp the layout of Belize, including its mainland, near-shore atolls, and sand cayes—renowned in the diving world for their impressive mangroves and coral reefs that serve as natural defenses against climate change. We even had an up-close encounter with manatees, which is always a thrill!
From there, what we dubbed as the “great ferry voyage of 2024” began, involving a series of ferry rides to and from the mainland over the course of the next 10 days. We ferried from Goff's Caye back to Belize City, then took another long boat transfer to Caye Caulker—the main launching point to the Great Blue Hole. As a dive-focused expedition team, visiting the Great Blue Hole was a must. After a brief overnight stay in Caye Caulker, we embarked on a 3-hour boat ride to the Great Blue Hole, diving around Lighthouse and Long Cayes to experience some of the best scuba diving the country has to offer. We always knew Belize’s underwater scenes were something special, but this was when we got to embrace firsthand what that truly meant.
Next, we ferried back to Belize City and took another shuttle to Turneffe Atoll, the largest in Belize. We stayed at the Calabash Caye Field Station for a few days, immersing ourselves in the challenges and solutions the country faces in mitigating climate impacts, restoring the reef, and protecting what remains for the future. We dove alongside scientists and conservationists, ate some of the best Belizean food imaginable, and began to truly fall in love with the place.
We took a speedboat back to the mainland, to then catch another ferry to San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. The next day, we hopped on ATVs and drove the entire caye, from San Pedro up to Bacalar Chico, to learn about the Hol Chan Marine Reserve—another protected area in these parts. Meeting the rangers and scientists, we strolled the beaches in search of nesting turtles while listening to their stories of what it’s like to grow up and contribute to the place you’ve always called home. All of these experiences were giving us a deeper understanding of the local commitment to preserving Belize’s marine ecosystems and the personal connections that drive this crucial work.
Taking the ATVs back down to San Pedro, we then ferried to the mainland and drove south to Tara's hometown. A few hours later, in the early morning, we arrived in Hopkins, fully immersing ourselves in Garifuna culture. We learned about their culinary methods, clothing, beliefs, music, history, and traditions. We ate fruits off the trees, experienced “authentic” chocolate (straight from its fruit rather than the factory), sat with elders and learned about their past, and even cooked under Wasani's guidance—a surprisingly enjoyable experience for someone like myself, who can hardly scramble an egg. Everything we made in Hopkins was exceptional and heartfelt, which certainly hit a little bit harder for a stranger to the kitchen like me.
The most compelling part of our venture south though was seeing Tara at home. We met her extended and immediate family, and even spent quality time with her famous grandfather, known as "Pa" for his seemingly never ending contributions to the community. A seasoned fly fisherman, Pa is renowned for catching the prized permit fish, attracting anglers from far and wide. And yet again, everyone knew and loved Tara, something that was heartwarming to witness from the sidelines.
During our final dinner in Hopkins, we enjoyed a beautiful beachfront view while dining on fish freshly caught that day by Tara’s extended family, owners of the restaurant, Maxims. We watched as the local crowd slowly trickled in to enjoy the Belizean tastes of their local family restaurant. Tara and I bantered back and forth, making fun of each other and reminiscing about our time together. Then she dropped the conclusive bomb I was waiting for: “It will be weird going back to life without you here. I think I’m going to miss you?” Just as predicted, and right on time, that’s when we officially became friends with Tara.
As we consciously explore the world, visiting far-off places that look nothing like home, we meet people like Tara—champions for their countries. These individuals dedicate everything to understanding their local ecosystems, connecting deeply with their communities, and serving their small corner of the ocean. Over time, they reach expert levels in their fields, becoming local legends who share their passion with others. This type of exploration has opened our eyes to the power of what sits right at home. We often think we need to explore distant places to gain valuable insights, discover who we want to be, and uncover our life’s purpose. But meeting people like Tara has reminded us that what we seek might have always been a little bit closer and more familiar than we thought.
Eco-warriors fighting for their home can create significant positive changes in their communities, as we saw in Belize’s coastal towns. Seeing Tara in Hopkins sparked a sense of homesickness in our team for the first time in nearly a year. Being away from our respective home bases (and my multiple homes, for that matter) has always left us missing friends and family. But this type of homesickness was different—it was about contribution. We felt a strong desire to give back to our homes in meaningful ways through our skills, expertise, time, and effort. It made us excited to eventually return to Australia, all in a year’s time. But until then, we left Belize having seen some mind blowing underwater landscapes, being schooled on the power of positive progress and finding a newfound friend.
To be continued …
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