It was day six of our time in the Amazon, and our very last. The days felt long, with the nights even longer. But that wasn’t necessarily a bad thing because our entire time spent there was packed with action, from the moment we woke up to the moment our heads hit the bunks. And staying in three wildly different ecosystems over the course of the six days brought drastically different sleep experiences—from what was attacking us during our sleep, to the sounds we woke to in the morning.
In the dense jungle, we were greeted by howler monkeys at sunrise, shooting off their incredibly loud territorial calls. In the Andes mountain region, we woke to the gentle drizzle of light rain. And in the cloud forest, perhaps the most awe inspiring of the three, we would wake up to the sounds of hummingbirds circling bushes for their hourly nectar intake.
Cloud forests are extremely unique and special ecosystems, and one of the many reasons why we chose to visit Manu National Park. According to Nature & Culture International, a nonprofit that focuses on forests in Ecuador, Peru, Mexico, Bolivia, and Colombia, cloud forests are defined as "mid-altitude tropical rainforests that extend from about 3,000 feet in elevation up to about 8,000 feet. When humid air, transpiring from the billions of trees in the lowland Amazon, moves west and up the mountain slopes of the Andes, some of it condenses and falls as rain or remains in the form of low clouds and mist."
Because cloud forests are higher in elevation, there are typically waterfalls, fast-moving water and lots of dense trees covered in clouds—hence the name. These trees are typically coated in epiphyte plants, which easily capture moisture. Clouds condense on the plants, making it one of the most exciting ecosystems to explore as there’s so much endemic life here. We were blown away by how rich and verdant these forests truly are.
But, we weren’t in the cloud forest to relax. We had a pressing appointment with the king of this jungle that we simply couldn’t miss. Between the hours of 5-7am, we were to meet the Cock of the Rock, Peru’s national bird and one of the weirdest we’ve seen in the wild. Don’t know what the Cock of the Rock is? That’s ok, neither did we. But around these parts in Peru, everyone does.
It had rained a lot over night, and it was still drizzling into the morning. We were worried that our chances of seeing this special bird were slim. Heading to a lookout area, where it was said the cocks regularly come to practice their mating call and dance for months on end, we sat and waited in silence. Realizing that we are fully becoming birders, and that we had spent six months traveling around the world equally excited about bird spotting as we were about diving, we just let this fun fact sink in a bit. We definitely willingly woke up at 4:30am to sit in the rain waiting for birds to show us their mating skills.
After that, a few more followed, all choosing their own branch to do their thing. One after another, these beautiful orange birds, resembling an odd relative of the rooster, were hanging in the area as well. We fully understood why people from all around the world come to the Amazon to see these special guys. The cock derives its name from its nesting habits on rocky ledges. These magnificent birds call the cloud forest their home, residing at elevations ranging from 500 to 2,400 meters (1,600 to 7,900 feet). Their diet primarily consists of fruits, insects, and occasionally small frogs and reptiles, with solitary foraging being the norm, although small groups can sometimes be spotted.
It's the males that boast the vivid plumage, while the females sport brown feathers, illustrating a striking case of 'sexual dimorphism.' Male cocks invest considerable effort in attracting females at communal sites called leks, where they engage in captivating duels involving jumping, wing-flapping, squawking, and bill-snapping.
These confrontations intensify when a female approaches, which actually happened while we were there casually observing. Except, in this case, all the male birds seemed to be thrown off guard, simply because we were far from these birds’ mating season. It seemed that the male cocks were all juveniles, scrambling to figure out what to do in the presence of a female during the off-season. It was hilarious to watch something similar to a Planet Earth special of a high-school dance, with one girl among 10 boys and no one knowing what to do with their hands (or wings in this case).
Ok back to the birds: males are polygamous and are not involved in nest-building or chick-rearing. It's the females who craft the nests using mud, vegetation, and their own saliva, forming a concave cup. Typically, females lay two eggs, which they diligently incubate for up to 28 days. In this challenging environment of cloud forest life, these birds contend with a variety of predators, including birds of prey, jaguars, pumas, ocelots, and boa constrictors.
The good news is that the cock has been evaluated as "Least Concern" on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species. Despite the ongoing pressure of habitat destruction which can be found all over the world, this remarkable bird is scattered in various locations throughout Peru. Fortunately, its expansive range provides a level of resilience, allowing it to maintain its least concerned status, which is always a nice to see here in the Amazon.
As we made our way through the cloud forest, heading out of the National Park, we were driving through huge pools of water with very little between us and the edge of the cliffside. Reminiscing on our past commuting through the jungle ecosystems over the last week, nothing really felt safe around here. But, we were with the pros who seemed to navigate these conditions with ease, stopping ever so often to marvel at another bird species spotted with precision accuracy.
We loved the cock, it was surely a highlight. But we also loved the tiny hummingbirds that were seemingly everywhere. In Peru, it's quite common to find hummingbirds, which are some of the smallest and most captivating birds on the planet. Their unique flight patterns, incredible heart rate and stunning plumage, which boasts bright and iridescent colors, have led to the creation of some truly curious names for these avian wonders, such as Angel of the Royal Sun, the Forked-Tailed Nymph and the Black-breasted Star.
They are exclusive residents of the Americas, and their family is impressively abundant with around 360 distinct species. It's worth noting, however, that some of these species may sadly already be extinct. Peru is home to a total of 124 hummingbird species, with 14 of them being endemic, meaning they can only be found here. While these little feathered creatures are spread throughout the country, they are most abundant in the lush tropical regions.
The hummingbirds we were encountering were so tiny and small, you had to really look closely to see them. Blue and green in color, they were so busy with their daily activities that they didn’t seem to care that we were watching them. Flying from flower to flower, their wings beating so fast they became practically invisible. Needless to say, the hummingbird action made it that much harder to leave the cloud forest.
After spending close to a week in the jungle, we had a newfound respect for Manu’s three distinct ecosystems. It was the most connected that I had ever felt to our natural world on land. For how much ocean exploration we tackle, this was a change of pace that made us appreciate terrestrial environments more than ever before. It was a chance to witness nature's most intricate designs, and an opportunity to connect with a world that felt both ancient and alive.
Living in the jungle meant adapting to its rhythms—rising with the sun and retreating with the night. It was met with the exhilaration of spotting a hidden creature, the wonder of finding a new plant with mysterious properties, and the satisfaction of overcoming the challenges it presented regularly. It forced us to stop caring about anything remotely superficial, and concern ourselves more with what's happening in our natural surroundings.
But perhaps what touched us most deeply was the awareness that this precious wilderness faces countless threats. The very existence of the Amazon rainforest, with its unparalleled mega-diversity, hangs in the balance. It is vulnerable to deforestation, climate change, and the encroachment of human activity. While we had already recognized this as fact prior to our journey here, seeing is really believing in this case. You have to go there to witness it yourself to experience its power and impact.
We knew that a part of our hearts would forever remain in Manu, Peru. The jungle had taught us not only about its mysteries but also about our own capacity for wonder, humility and stewardship. As we stepped out of the lush green, we carried with us the responsibility to perhaps think beyond the ocean and look to the earth as a whole connected ecosystem during our expeditions.
Conscious exploration needs to happen everywhere we go—from cultural cities to the Amazon rainforest to the depths of the ocean. If we want to explore, we need to understand the total picture and work to protect it all. It's our obligation to this place we are so fortunate to call home.
To be continued …
[Special thanks to Manu Ecological Adventures and their Jungle Specialist team (shout out to the Biologist Jose Medina) for crafting what was undoubtedly an exceptional itinerary, allowing us to experience the breadth of the park to the fullest.]
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