Being on expedition isn't just the underwater exploration; it's the interactions that occur above the water that often have even more profound impacts. The chance encounters with people along the way have resonated deeply with our team, leaving us eager for more. In these moments, we’re afforded the opportunity to glimpse into the worlds of our various hosts, to hear their stories, and ultimately, to leave them with a deeper appreciation for their homes than we could’ve dreamt.
And Nicaragua was no exception. Let me paint the picture: We were crossing a national border to meet with the Freediving Nicaragua team, affiliated with the SSI network. Nestled on the edge of Laguna De Apoyo—a 175-meter deep, freshwater volcanic crater lake—these freediving experts were hosting Nicaragua's first major competition aimed at helping locals set national records in this emerging sport. We were there not just to witness the event, but to connect with the athletes and delve into their personal stories. There's nothing quite like the excitement of being part of such a pioneering moment. To us, it doesn’t get much cooler than that!
From the moment we arrived, the atmosphere felt incredibly familiar, as though we had returned to a place we’d known in another life. Its immediate comfort was largely thanks to Thomas Dédès, the Co-Founder of the freedive center, and the warm reception from the local competitors, particularly Santos Alexander Espinoza Pavone—or Alex, for short. These two were eager to introduce us to their unique approach to freediving in the tranquil, glass-like conditions of the lagoon.
Alex was preparing for a monumental challenge: he aimed to be the first Nicaraguan to free-immersion dive to 50 meters. In this discipline, divers do not use fins but instead pull themselves along a guide line during both their descent and ascent. This method demands a calm, measured approach, strong breath control, and the ability to embrace the natural descent through freefall. The feat Alex was attempting required not just physical strength, but immense mental fortitude—it was truly not a leisurely swim for the faint of heart.
While most athletes would be deeply focused on mentally preparing for the competition, Alex was warmly greeting us and engaging in conversation as though it was just another casual Saturday. Yet, for him, the stakes were exceptionally high as he was poised to set a national record. While the other six competitors engaged in pre-dive rituals like stretching, deep breathing exercises, or listening to meditative music, Alex stood out by strumming his ukulele and singing Red Hot Chili Peppers classics, quite adeptly I might add.
As the competition commenced, the athletes donned their gear and began their approach to the freediving platform anchored in the center of the lagoon. Scheduled second to last, Alex watched as his peers achieved their targets, each celebration met with enthusiastic cheers and playful splashes from their instructors, Thomas, Colleen (the other Co-Founder of Freediving Nicaragua) and Sebastian. When it was Alex's turn, he approached the start with closed eyes and a grin, radiating confidence and readiness to undertake his challenge. With a final breath, he descended, effortlessly reaching the 50-meter mark as if it was second nature. Indeed, Alex seemed destined for this moment. And in fact, he kind of was …
After the competition, we sat on the Freediving Nicaragua steps looking out at the lagoon together. Alex shared his lifelong passion for the water including his obsession with swimming, surfing and spearfishing. His connection to the ocean was rooted in his upbringing along the raw, rugged Ostional coastline in Nicaragua—a place he offhandedly invited us to visit. In hindsight, I don’t think Alex realized our eagerness in accepting an offer like this one, as it is our standard approach when invited to adventure. A few days after his triumphant claim of the national record title, we journeyed 2.5 hours from the lagoon to Playa Escameca to see Alex in his natural element.
The journey along rough and rugged roads led us to a serene cliffside where an eco-retreat, thoughtfully integrated into the landscape, awaited. This place was curated by Alex’s family and closest friends, and it immediately felt special. Alex had mistakenly left behind his ukulele at the competition, but we managed to bring it with us among our other belongings. The natural musician was elated to be reunited with his prized instrument. His excitement was palpable, and he strummed away as he offered us a tour of his home. That was until the surfboards caught our eye, prompting a shift from tunes of the 90s to the waves of the day.
Alex was eager to take us out to a local-only surf spot known as “Yanke,” where he and his friends had enjoyed a successful session the previous day. Reviewing footage of the break on his phone, his eyes were glowing at the prospect of a repeat event. After enjoying some delicious fish tacos by the sea, we boarded his boat along with two of his close friends—Frankie and Carlos. Frankie, a sixteen-year-old who had recently lost his father, clearly looked up to Alex as a father. He was mentoring him in surfing, teaching him English, and involving him in the eco-tourism business that showcased their homeland. But today would be a little different than their usual surf excursions. Alex wanted Frankie to prove himself in the lineup with the dudes.
As we set out for the surf, Alex walked us through each of the beaches we were passing along the way. Pointing out his favorite spots, it was clear he was in love with his home, appreciating every little detail about it, wholly and fully. The minute high tide hit, we were on our boards and off the boat. Opting to not piss off every local in sight with my beginner surfing, I stuck to the inner waves, while Alex and Adam shredded out the back. The guys were in surf heaven and it was a joy to watch such happiness exude from this wholesome crew of ocean lovers.
After a thrilling two hours of getting pummeled out there, (whereas the guys had one of those supreme surf days) Alex guided us to his favorite spearfishing location to catch our dinner. In a secluded spot with no other boats in sight, Alex, Frankie and Carlos plunged into the water or cast their lines. Fish after fish succumbed to their expert techniques, with Frankie impressively handling a hand reel. His fine tuned skills bespoke his lineage—a natural fisherman, just like his father. Once we had caught seven fish, the team felt content, and we moved to their favorite bay to begin preparing dinner.
Before venturing into eco-tourism, Alex and Carlos had worked together in a restaurant, where they crafted their unique take on traditional Nicaraguan ceviche. This dish had since become their signature—a favorite they love sharing with newcomers. Their secret ingredients included passionfruit, limes, avocado, and pineapple, adding a tropical twist to the classic recipe. Onboard, Carlos expertly fileted the fish while Alex prepared the fruits and vegetables. Alex served us the ceviche in a beautifully carved pineapple half, perfectly garnished. With a smile, he shared that the ultimate ingredient was love, making the meal not just delicious but one for the books.
It’s hard to capture the essence of our brief time spent in Playa Escameca in only these paragraphs. But between our impromptu invitation, the mingling of kindred spirits, the surfing, the fishing, the perfected ceviche recipe, and obviously, the live music by Alex, the vibes were impeccable. It’s days like this one that epitomize the magic of unexpected connections you can make while traveling.
At 26, Alex has achieved more from his small corner of the world than many do with far broader horizons. He’s a testament to the immense potential that lies in appreciating and harnessing the resources of one's own backyard. Alex runs an eco-tour business, performs regularly with his band, has self-taught English through music, mentors young boys, excels as a surfer and coach, practices ethical spearfishing, and only a few days before, impressively reached a depth of 50 meters in free immersion. Basically what I’m trying to say is: this dude is the definition of a legend!
In a world that often pressures us to always want more—to be the best, to relentlessly push ourselves, and to outwork everyone—this mindset can be crushing, leaving individuals as mere shells of themselves. Alex introduced us to a different way of striving for excellence, one centered on love for what you do and the journey it entails. He embraces the process of learning and growing, finding joy in each step.
The secret to Alex's success lies in his contentment with what he has and his willingness to earnestly work for that which he doesn’t. He relishes the challenge of becoming a freediver, a sentiment he expressed repeatedly, saying, “I think I’ve fallen in love.” His drive isn’t about machismo or power; it's about deepening his connection with water—a source of peace, sustenance, fitness, and business for him. Alex’s motivation to improve and understand illustrates a sustainable approach to personal and professional growth. One more of us should adopt ourselves.
Leaving Nicaragua, I felt inspired to deepen my engagement with the activities I love. I left with a renewed desire to fall deeper into freediving, push further in scuba, and spend more time surfing. I left eager to explore more, see more, and meet more people like Alex. This expedition has shown that there are many unsung heroes out there—individuals who are breaking barriers, exceeding expectations, and fully embracing each moment as they revel in the extraordinary opportunities our planet offers. It's been more than humbling to encounter young people around the world who are living authentically, pursuing their passions, and remaining connected to their slice of the natural world all while they set records and redefine norms.
Whether or not our paths with Alex will cross again remains to be seen. The beauty of venturing to the edges of the earth is embracing the vast array of open doors and the mysteries that await. But one thing is certain: Alex will not be forgotten. Every time I prepare for a freedive, taking that last breath before plunging into the depths, Alex's rendition of "Chachachá" plays in my mind. It soothes, motivates, and reminds me that true success comes from loving the process and cherishing every moment.
If you ever find yourself in Nicaragua and want to open your eyes and mind, I highly recommend connecting with Alex. Go surfing, try his ceviche or go on a dive with him at the magical volcanic lagoon, and see where the depths might lead you.
To be continued …
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