California has always held a special place in my heart, particularly as a location that symbolizes my coming of age. Growing up on the East Coast, I initially had little affection for the Golden State. My visits to Los Angeles left me with impressions of clout chasing in the entertainment industry, unbearable traffic, overpriced smoothie bowls, and oppressive desert heat. However, everything changed when I took up scuba diving in my 30s. This new hobby unveiled the magic of California, revealing a side of the state that left me craving more and more. Suddenly, California wasn't just a land of superficial glitz, but a place of profound natural beauty and adventure.
Today, California ranks not only as my favorite place in the USA but also as one of my top dive destinations in the entire world. This state offers an incredible array of experiences far beyond the superficial veneer of Los Angeles, which is frankly just a small fraction of what California truly has to offer. Beneath the surface, there is a captivating, otherworldly realm that many have yet to discover. The underwater landscapes here are filled with biodiversity and beauty, often overlooked, yet lying hidden just beneath the surface.
And the state’s splendor is only limited to its lengthy coastline. From hiking in national parks and rock climbing, to skiing and snowboarding, there’s a niche for every interest. But for me, California is where I truly became a real diver. Here, I transitioned from a novice to a confident underwater navigator. This state challenged me, pushed me beyond my early limits, and taught me to step out from diving solely with professionals to striving to become one myself. It was in these waters that I built my tolerance for the cold and embraced every opportunity that came my way in the underwater world. Most importantly, California is where I discovered that there are indeed positive stories of progress in ocean conservation, inspiring a hopeful outlook on our environmental efforts.
It was August 2021 when I managed to secure a government exemption from Australia, allowing me to return to the USA for work. I was scheduled to fly back to Perth, Western Australia by October 2021. However, just two days after arriving in the USA, my exemption was revoked, and I found myself unable to return until the Australian borders reopened to global travel in March 2022. Faced with this unexpected turn of events, I decided to settle in California with my brother. But instead of reverting to the typical Los Angeles lifestyle of my past, I embraced a new challenge: to go extreme with my diving.
My first dive at Catalina Island was a transformative experience. Joining a local dive boat as a solo diver, I found myself both terrified and exhilarated. My dive buddy, an experienced local who seemed uninterested in guiding a newcomer, left me to navigate on my own. This dive was the first time I was truly responsible for myself underwater, a significant step that marked my transition to a more confident and independent diver.
But my fear quickly morphed into obsession, and all thanks to the mesmerizing kelp forests I encountered. Despite the chilly 16-degree Celsius water, I was captivated by the beauty of this ecosystem. Giant kelp formed a canopy on the surface, with sunlight filtering through to create a kaleidoscope of colors. The vibrant orange garibaldi fish swam all around, and horn sharks rested on the ocean floor. At 15 meters deep, I felt like I was in heaven and vowed that this dive would be the first of many along the coastlines of California.
After four months of diving here, I honed my skills in navigation, group leadership, dive timing, and overall safety awareness. This period deepened my appreciation for the region's unique and thriving marine environments. But of all the places I explored, Santa Barbara and the Channel Islands captivated me perhaps the most. Diving there felt like stepping back in time, experiencing the Earth as it might have been before human impact. The pristine conditions of these areas underscored the effective conservation efforts and the dedicated teams working tirelessly to preserve these precious marine habitats.
During my time in California, I formed a close-knit group of friends from diverse backgrounds—professional divers, photographers, nonprofit leaders, and agency executives. Together, we delved deeply into the ocean community of the state. We learned about the best dive sites across southern, central, and northern California, identified universities with specific oceanic research focuses, recognized leading figures in ocean conservation, and discovered businesses committed to ecosystem protection. It felt like we were decoding and connecting the entire system of ocean science, conservation, and sport with each dive.
This deep exploration inspired a dedicated 10-day segment of our expedition focused solely on California. Most would assume that the coasts of the state are some of the most explored waters in the country, if not the entire world. But this couldn’t be farther from the truth, and to our surprise, we found certain sites were extremely under-visited. Many people didn't realize that the national park of the Channel Islands was just an hour away from Santa Barbara. So in visiting this time around, our mission would extend beyond diving. Exploring from a professional perspective, we aimed to connect with those who have dedicated their lives to protecting and studying California's oceans, marine sanctuaries, and protected areas, gaining insight into their invaluable work behind the scenes.
While there's still much to explore in California, both above and below water, significant efforts are underway to protect this cherished place. A diverse coalition of conservationists, scientists, academics, divers, community leaders and startups all are dedicating their time and expertise to preserving the state’s vibrant ecosystems. The ocean community here is particularly close-knit, fostering a sense of camaraderie and cooperation that is not often seen among other dive communities (at least in our experiences!) This interconnectedness enhances the effectiveness of conservation efforts, making California a model for environmental stewardship.
Our expedition became a whirlwind tour of meetings with some of the pivotal figures behind California's ocean conservation success. But of all the remarkable individuals we met, Sarah Hameed with the Marine Conservation Institute stood out as a pivotal connector and navigator among the diverse cast of characters along the California coastline. From our initial connection, it was clear that Sarah and I would become fast friends. She was incredibly generous with her time and willing to engage in lengthy discussions that helped unravel the complexities of ocean science and conservation in California. Her insights and guidance were invaluable in helping us understand the broader context and the interconnectedness of efforts to protect the Golden State's marine environments.
This chill, laid back surfer is also the Director of Blue Parks & Senior Scientist, in charge of assessing the success of marine protected areas (MPAs) around the world. Sarah and her team have developed rigorous criteria to rate and grade each MPA, highlighting the distinction between merely establishing an MPA and maintaining its effectiveness. Successful MPAs require comprehensive stakeholder engagement—from government officials to scientists to local communities—and persistent, on-the-ground efforts to adhere to the high standards set by organizations like the Marine Conservation Institute. In California, especially, Sarah and her team have played a crucial role in supporting effective MPAs, working closely with various stakeholders to ensure these marine areas thrive.
One location especially important to Sarah and her colleagues has been the Channel Islands, one of the standout successes in marine conservation. Through my own diving experiences, I've witnessed first-hand the impressive outcomes of their efforts. The Channel Islands, consisting of eight islands within a Marine Sanctuary, demonstrate the effectiveness of no-take zones, or areas that prohibit the removal of anything from their natural environments. And because of this, species such as Stellar sea lions and humpback whales, previously facing significant declines, are now experiencing a slow but steady recovery. Additionally, populations of squid, spiny lobster, and crab have also seen a resurgence. Despite widespread depletion of kelp forests across California, the forests around the Channel Islands remain stable, proving that something here is in fact working.
Meeting Sarah on a dive boat headed to explore the Channel Islands couldn't have been more timely or appropriate. This convergence brought together two distinct worlds: our team of storytellers and Sarah’s knowledgeable community of scientists. By combining our diverse strengths, we envisioned a collaborative effort to document and chart successful marine protected areas (MPAs) like the Channel Islands throughout the course of our expedition. Our goal was to use these positive case studies as benchmarks to promote better conservation practices in other regions that haven't experienced similar success.
Meeting in Santa Barbara, one of California's most picturesque and ocean-centric cities, our eclectic dive crew came together. We boarded the Spectre day boat, uniquely equipped with a hot tub to help offset the winter conditions upon us, and off we went to the Channel Islands. Diving here means preparing for the chilly embrace of temperate waters. Especially during the winter months—if you're not outfitted in appropriate gear—it feels not too far off from doing a cold plunge. Yet, these shallow water dives offer some of the most thrilling encounters. It's a favorite among dedicated divers, particularly from October to February, when visibility is at its best. Our early March dive was a gamble in terms of conditions, but that was inconsequential. Our primary aim was to immerse ourselves in the successes of this protected area and to continue expanding our dive crew's experience and connections.
We completed three dives that day, braving the cold and embracing the challenges of off-season diving, including the strong currents. More importantly, we had an incredible time cementing a partnership and fostering an adventurous mindset hand-in-hand. Ocean protection is not a solitary endeavor; it necessitates collaboration and the convergence of diverse expertise to rally around a shared mission and vision. Each of us may approach the challenge from a unique perspective, but it's this diversity that strengthens our collective efforts. This inclusive and collaborative approach is a hallmark of the Marine Conservation Institute's philosophy and a key reason why our paths crossed, enabling us the special opportunity to unite throughout our global expedition.
To anyone eager to shift perspectives, to see familiar places through new eyes, or to join a community of passionate individuals ready to tackle any conditions—consider venturing into the world of scuba diving. Before you know it, you might find yourself immersed in some of the most successfully protected marine areas in the world, alongside newfound friends who share your passion for the ocean. The sport is not just about exploring the depths; it’s about the connections and experiences made along the way that have the potential to mark some of the best chapters of your life!
To be continued …
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