Meeting Iguana Man

In a place where the illegal wildlife trade is running rampant—with tigers in cages built on reefs and monkeys chained to their owners while perched on their shoulders—you can’t help but wonder if there’s any safe haven for land animals on the island of Roatán in Honduras. In certain areas, especially the heavily trafficked ones, it’s not hard to find these types of “attractions” that lure in tourists for their wild appeal. 

It was shocking for our team to see these kinds of situations over and over as we traversed the west side of Roatán. And it left us curious if there were any sanctuaries here that are in fact sustainable and doing more good than harm. Places where we could see some semblance of what “wild” must have meant to the west of Roatán decades ago. Working with local scientists and community development leads through the Roatán Marine Park, we were pointed to one place that we could safely say was a true land-based conservation hub. And it was another shocking destination on the map for entirely different reasons. 

Making a slight detour off our planned expedition trail, we found ourselves sitting on the ground with, quite literally, hundreds of iguanas surrounding us. I’m not even exaggerating in the slightest about those numbers. We were being crawled all over by four different native species, each of which was facing more risks than you could imagine, all trying to get a bite of the tasty leaves in our hands. We found ourselves at “Arch’s Iguana Farm” in the French Harbour, getting an up-close-and-personal experience with these special animals that are revered in Honduras in many ways. 

Of our newfound reptilian friends, the most common one in Honduras was the green iguana.

Also known as the common iguana, it is an emblematic species of the island's lush ecosystems. These large lizards, characterized by their vibrant green scales and impressive size, are often seen lounging in the sun across Roatán's numerous trees or scurrying through the underbrush. Native to Central and South America, green iguanas in Roatán thrive in the tropical climate, which offers abundant vegetation that forms the bulk of their herbivorous diet. While they are a common sight that adds to the island’s exotic appeal, green iguanas have been facing threats from habitat destruction, the illegal pet trade and food consumption, which challenge their survival in the wild.

Very similarly, there’s the black spiny-tailed iguana, known scientifically as Ctenosaura and is the fastest of its kind. Black and green iguanas are a local favorite as they are what many call “a cure for anything,” as reported in VICE. Known locally as "garrobo," these iguanas are often featured in traditional Honduran recipes, particularly in rural areas where they are an excellent source of protein. 

During the Easter season, when red meat is traditionally avoided, iguana meat becomes especially popular. It is commonly prepared as "sopa de garrobo," a soup that is said to have health benefits and is revered for its unique, gamey flavor despite its common comparison to chicken. And in many instances, the iguana is served with its eggs, which is cause for concern in a conservation context. This dish, although a cultural staple in Honduras that celebrates the local wildlife in a culinary context, is raising conservation concerns due to overhunting in some regions, and notably the consumption of the iguanas’ eggs.

And this is ultimately why the Arch’s Iguana Farm was established: to protect these native species. 

Yes, it’s true that when you move around Roatán you’re bound to see iguanas. But according to the man himself, Mr. Sherman, the owner of the iguana farm, what we’re seeing today is NOTHING like what it once was. Meeting Mr. Sherman was far from expected, but it was one of those experiences that truly puts things into perspective. The 70-year old, Roatán native, who’s lived here his whole life, is what they call a “conch,” or someone of English descent that has integrated deeply into island culture that they’ve become more Hondurian than anything else. With his thick island twang, tanned skin and piercing blue eyes, he greeted us into his iguana farm with open arms, as if he knew we were coming all along. 

Mr. Sherman is a local legend in Roatán, deeply rooted in the island's history and dedicated to its conservation. Decades ago, the island was a vibrant habitat for diverse wildlife. However, over the years, Roatán has faced significant ecological challenges due to poaching, deforestation, and the introduction of non-native species such as possums and raccoons, which prey on iguana eggs. Distressed by the degradation he witnessed, Sherman took decisive action about 15 years ago by legally protecting his substantial property—a land that has been in his family for generations. His efforts extended beyond the land; he also worked to safeguard the adjacent marine areas, contributing to the restoration of the coral reefs, and helping to increase the populations of local fish, turtles, conchs, and lobsters.

Sherman's dedication to wildlife preservation is evident in his particular fondness for iguanas of many kinds. 

When he established his property as a protected area, he set it up so that iguanas could find safe haven here, amidst the hunting that was rampant on the island. He would feed them, tend to their wounds and treat them like part of his family. We came to learn that this trait of Mr. Sherman extended beyond the treatment of iguanas, to anyone and everyone in his sphere. 

In recent years as the hunting has gotten worse, he employed night watchmen to protect these creatures from increasing incidents, which he describes as some of the worst he has seen. "They’ve run this place dry," Sherman remarked, reflecting his deep frustration with the continuous wildlife exploitation since the 1980s. His sanctuary for iguanas, which are incredibly instinctual and intelligent animals, allows up to 3,500 at its peak to safety and return each year. Unfortunately, Sherman notes that fewer iguanas make it back each year due to the relentless hunting, and now he’s counting only 2,000 so far this year. 

In addition to his work with iguanas, Sherman is also committed to preserving marine life around his property. His dock is home to tarpon, jacks, and mango snappers, which have grown to impressive sizes under his care. These species had been declining sharply on the island, but thanks to his efforts to protect the surrounding reef, his front yard is now thriving. Massive conch shells now grow around his area, signifying the health and recovery of the marine environment he has fought so hard to protect. Through his dedication and actions, Sherman has made his home a true refuge for the wildlife of Roatán.

When we arrived, Mr. Sherman was sitting on his deck, enjoying a soda and a meal prepared by his staff, his gaze fixed on the ocean. Our arrival sparked a shift to storytelling, which could have easily filled the entire day. He delved into the details of the iguana mating season, a significant time for these local favorites. Iguanas on the island can live up to 30-35 years, with females typically reaching lengths of 2-4 feet, while males can grow up to a staggering 7 feet! During mating season, males develop darker colors and sport muscular necks adorned with orange spikes to attract females. 

And that’s what we were witnessing in full force all around us: the iguana’s aggressive mating season. 

But in a somewhat counterintuitive twist, we learned that Mr. Sherman’s love for iguana conservation was paired with another: his love for Donald Trump.  On his truck parked out the front of the iguana farm, he had a huge sticker of Trump and Tom Brady plastered to its back. When we were talking with Mr. Sherman, we couldn’t take our eyes off his hat that read ““Joe and hoe gotta go”—a gift from a friend. Thrilled to hear we were from the USA and that I spent most of my years in New York City, he was ready to dig into the “why Trump'' question that clearly was on our minds, as he could tell our frequent glances at his hat were begging for a bit more insight. 

Mr. Sherman explained that from his perspective, during Trump's presidency, Hondurans were seeing the best economy it’s seen in a long time. “It was the first time we weren’t living paycheck to paycheck and things were actually what I consider good,” Mr. Sherman explained. And that statement made sense to us, given Honduras' status within the Central American countries we were consciously exploring. 

Honduras remains one of the poorest and most unequal countries in the Americas, with significant challenges particularly in its socio-economic development. According to the World Bank, as of 2023, poverty in Honduras is pervasive, with an estimated 51.3% of the population living on less than $6.85 USD per day. The nation has struggled with high levels of inequality and limited economic growth, which has been insufficient to substantially improve the living conditions of its people. Despite some progress in poverty reduction, the economic disparities are still profound, reflecting the broader structural issues that impede Honduras' development. 

But perhaps what Mr. Sherman was referring to the fact that the country saw moderate economic growth from 2010 until the onset of COVID-19, averaging a 3.8% growth rate in the three years before the pandemic, per the International Trade Association. The economy was significantly hit in 2020 due to the pandemic and natural disasters, leading to a 9% contraction but rebounded with a growth of 12.5% in 2021. But, it is a fact that ongoing economic growth is presently happening in Honduras. We certainly cannot be sure that this is linked to Trump in the way in which Mr. Sherman believes. Yet nonetheless, he certainly believes. 

He went on to say, “I don’t care who you voted for or what your preferences were then, or are today. I just want myself and the Hondurian people to be happy.”

Mr. Sherman represented a pretty unusual demographic: the truly eclectic combo of passionate conservation efforts juxtaposed with a strong political allegiance to a figure often criticized for his environmental policies. Not willing to judge a book by its cover, we walked into Arch’s with an open mind. Amidst this complexity, Mr. Sherman welcomed us warmly right back, treating us like long-lost members of his iguana family, eager to share his story, vision, values and sanctuary.

This man, who has seen so much in his seven decades on Roatán, simply wants peace and happiness. He wants less killing and more conserving. And above all else, he wants prosperity for his people so that they don’t HAVE to hunt for their livelihoods. So that nature and people can coexist in balance. 

Not all of our views will ever be the same, especially when you explore other regions, with distinct cultures and customs. Our experiences will be far from it. But taking the time to listen and learn from others who don’t have the same outlook as you is quite critical. In order to live harmoniously, we need to understand as many sides as possible and always seek a middle ground. This is something that we’ve valued in traveling the world for nearly a year. We’ve gotten to meet incredible people from all walks of life that do NOT share anything the same as us, except our love of the natural world around us. 

To be continued …