As dusk fell, our group of ten gathered at the dock, ready to board the research vessel for a nighttime excursion. Our objective was simple: to observe the jumping crocodile needlefish that are most active at night and drawn to light. Given the impact of overfishing and illegal trawling on Cambodian waters, any sign of marine life was both welcome and exciting.
Before departing, Simon Retif, the Cartographer at Marine Conservation Cambodia (MCC), shared a humorous yet cautionary tale. He told us of an encounter with an overly enthusiastic needlefish that left him immobile for a week due to an up close and personal injury. His story, amusing in retrospect, served as a stark reminder for us to stay vigilant. Little did we know, our attention was about to be diverted entirely elsewhere.
As we ventured out into the darkness, our group scattered across the boat, each of us scanning the waters for any sign of needlefish. With only a single torch and dim boat lights guiding us, visibility was minimal. Even our hands disappeared from sight, just inches from our faces. And as we gradually distanced ourselves from Koh Ach Seh, the MCC team's remote research island, the needlefish began to jump all around us. Everything was going according to plan.
The team’s genuine excitement was refreshing as the needlefish darted around us—a clear indication that MCC's efforts against illegal bottom trawling were paying off. This resurgence of marine life was a testament to the ocean’s recovery, as it was previously ravaged by these extremely harmful electric trawlers. Trawlers, notorious for their destructive weighted nets, scrape the ocean floor, obliterating marine habitats with their lethal combination of physical destruction paired with electric shocks. Amidst our laughter and high fives, a sense of triumph filled the air, even as a distant rumbling sound began to grow, unnoticed in our celebration.
Living on Koh Ach Seh for nearly a week, we were accustomed to nightly rain showers. While these brief spells were manageable, we often pondered how the island's modest infrastructure would fare against a more substantial downpour. Life on the island was an exercise in simplicity and authenticity. From sleeping in rudimentary huts, to taking bucket showers and living off the land, it was a departure from the conveniences of civilization.
For newcomers, adjusting to this barebones lifestyle was both a challenge and an enlightening experience.However, within a few days, our desire for material comforts faded only to be replaced by a peaceful immersion in the raw and unfiltered existence.
Marla and I exchanged wary glances, but our companions seemed undisturbed by the increasingly ominous rumbling in the distance. Embracing that call to the unknown, we followed in their lead. As if we had any other choice! Stationed at the bow, we were on high-alert for those jumpers. All the sudden, the high beam's glare made its way towards us, we saw needlefish totally surrounding us, as well as Marla’s hair standing on end, as if she’d been electrified!
Shocked by Marla’s hair, I was yet again caught off guard when a thunderous boom nearly pushed me from the bow. The storm we'd observed from afar was now upon us, its lightning illuminating the ominous sight of illegal fishing trawlers lined up along the Vietnam-Cambodia border. Among the fleet of trawlers, one vessel loomed dangerously close.
Koh Ach Seh stands as a crucial battleground in the fight against illegal fishing, with MCC at the forefront for years. Here, encounters with illegal fishermen are unpredictable: they either flee at the sight of MCC boats or brace for confrontation. Illegal fishing knows no time constraints, and occurs relentlessly. However, these vessels do their work typically in the dead of night, and this is when the stakes are highest, making each encounter a gamble between evasion and direct conflict.
Regardless of the time of day, the renegade conservationists at MCC combat illegal fishing with ingenuity and resilience. For example, they have created Conservation and Anti-Trawling Structures (CANTS), also known as “blocks.” These heavy block structures create formidable barriers underwater, designed to tear the nets off trawlers, effectively deterring fishing in the area. The more they deploy these structures, the more they witness a decline in illegal fishing activities. Resistant to removal due to their strength and stability, these blocks become underwater sanctuaries, fostering marine life and demonstrating that given a chance, ocean restoration is indeed achievable.
The night of our close encounter with the trawlers was charged with an ominous energy, almost as if nature itself was offering us a glimpse of the longstanding struggles in these waters. The overwhelming presence of these boats, and their passengers who ruthlessly deplete fish stocks night after night, starkly illustrated the daunting challenge faced by MCC and the local fishing communities.
As the trawler crept closer, the frequency of lightning strikes intensified. The gathering storm overhead presented a formidable threat, overshadowing the usual tensions of the sea. Recognizing that this storm was more than just a passing squall, our skipper quickly shifted gears, propelling us back towards Koh Ach Seh with urgency.
Racing along MCC’s long, hand-crafted dock, the fierce rain was pelting us and the wind was picking up around us. It was evident that those who had stayed on the island were no strangers to such tempests. They moved with purpose, securing the camp against the storm's incoming wrath. In the face of nature's untamed force, their well-rehearsed actions spoke of resilience and the seasoned understanding that comes from living on the fringes.
Drenched, Marla and I sprinted back to our hut, only to discover our floor mattresses were soaking up the rainwater that had made its way through every open nook of our shelter. Attempts to secure the flailing window tarp proved futile against the storm's fury. Resigned, we huddled our mattresses and gear together in the hut's center, our only refuge. The night ahead promised to be a wet and wild one, as the relentless thunder and lightning that had chased us from the sea now loomed directly over Koh Ach Seh, unleashing its might for hours on end.
The walkways, once mere sandy paths from the beach to the huts, transformed into rivulets, with water rising to our calves. We couldn’t help but marvel at the intensity of this thunderstorm, as we hadn’t seen anything quite like it on expedition so far. Sure, we’ve had our fair share of bad weather being out in these tropical microclimates, but this one was the storm that ruled them all. It made us feel like we had taken steps back in time. We were living without much technology and with limited infrastructure, one step away from sleeping outside amidst the storm itself.
But it was this type of immersion that made us feel even more connected to the natural world. It was evidence that, in the face of Mother Nature's might, human endeavors still stand vulnerable. It laid bare the fragility of our constructed world—how quickly material creations could vanish, leaving us face-to-face with the raw elements. This realization stripped away the veneer of luxury, revealing the profound simplicity and necessity of sustainable living.
As dawn broke, a calm finally settled over the ocean, a stark contrast to the storm's visible aftermath on the island. At the MCC's communal dining area, the team's nonchalant reaction to the previous night's activity was striking. For these dedicated conservationists, hailing from Cambodia and beyond, such events are routine on this remote island, a place largely unknown to the outside world. Their reality involves confronting not only the illegal activity in their backyard, but also the climate crisis—adapting to ever-changing environmental conditions surrounding them.
Around the breakfast table, our day at MCC began to take shape. Adam, Marla, and I were assigned to spot Irrawaddy dolphins, a task only feasible in glassy conditions, as these dolphins are less playful and less likely to breach than other species. Meanwhile, two other groups were tasked with assessing the illegal trawlers from the previous night, and preparing for a mainland journey to discuss confidential strategies with local authorities, plotting the future course of their conservation efforts.
Living on Koh Ach Seh marked a profound shift in our expedition. For the first time, we found ourselves truly at the edge of comfort, pushing us to open our hearts and minds to the experience. This challenge demanded complete adaptation and an openness to embrace a different way of living wholeheartedly. And that's precisely what we did, immersing ourselves fully in this new and raw reality.
Our conversations with the island's long-term residents, some of whom had been there for months or even years, got us thinking. This is the heart of our expedition's purpose: to encounter those who introduce us to new perspectives and lifestyles. And frankly, on a deeper and more philosophical angle, it’s about learning and understanding these different perspectives on the meaning of fulfillment and happiness.
As we adjusted to the simplicity of island life at the MCC base, our initial discomforts transformed into invaluable moments. Sleeping on the floor became an adventure, cold bucket showers a refreshing ritual, and the wet nightly boat rides a time for celebration and introspection. The absence of flushing toilets and toilet paper turned into an amusing challenge, while disconnecting from our devices allowed us to genuinely tap in with our surroundings and each other.
Adopting minimalism sparked meaningful discussions about the choice to live for conservation and conscious exploration. This shift away from modern comforts emphasized that true fulfillment often lies in simplicity and purpose, unaffected by external conditions or luxuries.
In Cambodia, we saw first hand that the pursuit of conservation is relentless and unwavering, regardless of the obstacles. Through rain or shine, the team's dedication remained steadfast, proving that true commitment to a cause transcends any external challenges. Here, every day brings a new opportunity to make a difference, affirming our resolve to continue exploring and contributing, no matter what storms lie ahead.
To be continued …
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